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Rodellar

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Rodellar  


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Location: 42.2825, -0.0782 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB on Sep 18, 2009
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Description 

A maze of canyons with incredible rock.

The main climbing area is called Mascun. This is just one small section of canyon in a area known for it's cayonnering. There is tons of rock around depending on how long one is willing to hike.

The rock is mostly blocky with tuffas and very steep. Stuff that looks like choss is often times very high quality stone.

LOGISTICS
Fly to Barcelona then drive, you could do public transportation but it would leave you about 25 km short of where you need to go and the buses may not run every day of the week so it is not really an option if your stay is short, though if you have unlimited time and no issue with hitch hiking it might work.

WHERE TO STAY
There are 4 main options and several other homes that you might be able to rent a room in.

  • Camping Mascun- the biggest scene and more expensive, camping and bungalows (the 4 person ones were pretty rundown, but the 6 person ones were nicer looking). Located on the right near the end of the road in Rodellar, no need to drive as you are only about a minute or two from the trailhead. Small grocery store and restaurant.

  • Camping El Puente- Quieter camping and bungalows (the 6 person bungalows were about the same price as the 4 person ones at Mascun and as nice) there are also "apartments" for 5 people which are small and cramped, not as nice. Located down a road on the left as you drive towards Rodellar about a km before town. You will need to drive daily as it is a very steep km off the main road down to the camping then another km to the trailhead.

  • Albuergue Las Almunias- Basically a hostel in the small town of Las Almunias 4 km before Rodellar on the left side of the road, small square building. There are 6 rooms with 3 bunkbeds in each and each room has its own bathroom. This is where we stayed and during the week we had the place completely to our selves but if the weather was nice the place was full on the weekends. There is a community kitchen that is small and a dinning area with sofas and tables. There is a restaurant downstairs. This is the cheapest besides camping.

  • There is another place right across the street from the Albuergue, it is a large building, the biggest in town. It is a hotel, albuerge and they also have apartments to rent. The one apartment I saw was pretty large and quite nice, full kitchen and laundry machine, though it was for 8. Don't know how this compares in price to the other options. There is a restaurant here as well.

  • There are several houses in Rodellar that you should be able to rent a room in though they never answered their phones when we called. Casa Orilla, Casa Juliette, etc.

  • There is also a large parking lot below the road on the left as you come into the town of Rodellar, it looked as though you could set up and leave a camper van here, don't know if you have to pay or not.

Getting There 

Head to Lleida then on N-240 (a new highway is going in called A-22) towards Huesca. After passing through Barbastro continue towards Huesca but turn off towards Abiergo. From Abiergo you can follow signs to Rodellar.

Climbing Season



Weather station 18.7 miles from here

65 Total Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',10],['5.12',30],['5.13',18],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rodellar:
Billy el Rapido   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   Mascun : El Camino
Toma Costanazo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Mascun : El Camino
Pince Sans Rire   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Mascun : Pince Sans Rire
L'any que ve Tambe   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Grand Boveda : Gran Boveda Right
El Delfin   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 50'   Las Ventanas : Las Ventanas and Behind
Browse More Classics in Rodellar

Featured Route For Rodellar
Steve McClure warming up on Toma Castanazo.

Toma Costanazo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Europe : Spain : ... : El Camino
A bouldery section off the ground over the initial bulge is probably the hardest part of the route. Work your way up the wall past some good holds to a reachy clip straight up then head left and up and around back to the bolt line, this is another difficult section. From here continue up great holds to a blank looking section at the top. You can either head straight up or circumvent to the left, either way is about the same grade. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Rodellar Slideshow Add Photo
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The village of Rodellar.
The village of Rodellar.
El Delfin (dolphin) and the Rio Mascun.
El Delfin (dolphin) and the Rio Mascun.
El Goato (spanish goat).
El Goato (spanish goat).
Rodellar is known for its exquisite tufas, like these at Gran Boveda.
Rodellar is known for its exquisite tufas, like th...
The notorious "El Delfin", 5.13a, at Rodellar.
The notorious "El Delfin", 5.13a, at Rodellar.
The small village of Rodellar sits right on top of the canyon, on the East side.  The cliff below is "Bulder de Jon", in the Mascun section of the canyon.
The small village of Rodellar sits right on top of...

Comments on Rodellar Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 1, 2009
  • There is a very international flavor to the people you will meet here.

  • The mullet rules in Spain, go figue.

  • WARNING*Be careful about who you allow to belay you here, it seemed to me as though at least every other belayer was using a GriGri by simply holding the device OPEN and feeding slack, never with a hand on the break end unless they were taking slack in. A climber was dropped because of this the first day we were there. The belayer looked down and the climber fell, they probably hit the ground before the belayer even noticed.

If you are going ot allow someone besides your normal partner belay you , make sure to watch them belay before even asking and make sure you are comfortable with what you see.

My wife thought is was more like 75% of belayers were unacceptable.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 11, 2009
We were here at the end of November and it was definitely "too late". We showed up on the 28th of November, and apparently it was bomber thru the end of that day, but then it rained the next two days, and that shut the whole place down. You would think a crag with so many huge caves would be good to go in the rain, but 90% of the good routes seap dramatically for days after it rains.

Anyway, this is one of the best sport crags on the planet, but I would come in late Oct to mid-November.
By Red
From: Arizona
Feb 5, 2010
"The mullet rules in Spain, go figue."

So true.
By Blake Cash
Feb 15, 2010
Would summer be too hot in Rodellar? Are there any good summer places in Spain?
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 16, 2010
I talked to some people (Emily H & Sam E) that went there in September, and they said it was "too hot". Obviously it depends on your heat tolerance. I think parts of Montserrat are good in the summer, but if you want to climb hard, I would go somewhere North.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 16, 2010
I was out there in September 2009 and while it was probably warmer than ideal I would not say it was too hot. It was probably too hot in the sun but since most of the good climbing is in the shade from noon or so on and it does not get dark till almost 8pm it was fine. You could climb in pants and a t-shirt, on the warmer days it was shorts and no shirt while climbing but there are days when the belayers are wearing down jackets as well so it is pretty varied in September. I would say that October is the best time to go.

Lots of hot shot kids have been going out to Rodellar during their summer vacations and sending the place, so it's not like you can't have a good time in the summer. I would say it is like Rifle in the sense that yeah you can climb hard but will be limited in how much you can climb. Probably a bit in the later morning when some stuff on the far side of the canyon starts to go into the shade, then a siesta and again after 5 or 6 pm till when ever the sun goes down which is pretty late in the summer.
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Jul 10, 2010
I just got back from 6 weeks in Rodellar and will offer some additional observations.

  • I arrived in late May and the temperatures were pretty good. However, some of the routes were still wet, particularly the Gran Boveda. We were told by locals that this spring has been much wetter than normal so the seepage may not be the norm.

  • By early June most routes were dry and climbable. The weather was ok, too warm to climb hard in the sun but nice in the shade. We even had a few days where a down jacket was nice for belaying.

  • The weather meshed very nicely with the Spanish schedule which goes something like this: Sleep in as late as possible. Wake up, drink some coffee and hang out for a few hours. Around 2 start to think about going climbing. Finally go climbing an hour later. Climb until dark. In June climbing until 930 or even later was possible with good conditions after 8P. Eat dinner at 11P or Midnight. Stay up until the wee hours (Kalandrakas was quite popular for this). Repeat.

  • Most of the hard climbing works well with the schedule described above. The big showpiece crags are all in the shade in the afternoon so if you're going in the warmer months, plan on sleeping in.

  • June is supposed to be a dry month. This June we had 2 separate weeks of bad weather which caused many of the routes to seep again. The locals claim this is very unusual. When almost all of Rodellar was wet, Margalef was dry, as was most of Les Bruixes at Terradets.

  • The crowds arrive around July 1: Canyoners, hikers, climbers, many kids on their July holiday. We didn't notice much difference in the climbing crowds (Rodellar is a big place) but camping, parking, etc was more crowded. The town also began to charge for the van parking on the left side as you drive in. This was free in May and June but went to 3 Euros per night in July. On the plus side, they unlocked the bathrooms in the parking lot at the same time.

  • If you're offended by Sika or chipped holds, be warned that Rodellar has a fair amount. Some of the Sika is odd, in places where the climbing would still be possible at a not much harder grade.

  • Kalandrakas is a great climber's refuge. The food is good and reasonably cheap (the Lasagna is homemade and very very good), beer is cold, and they have free wifi. Open and busy late and they even have a pool table. I didn't stay there so I can't comment on the lodging.

  • You can get basic groceries at Camping Mascun and El Puente. Camping Mascun has better meats, cheese, and produce while the fresh bread at El Puente is amazing. Going to Huesca or Barbastro for groceries is cheaper but takes about an hour. There is no ATM in Rodellar, the closest one that I know of is in Alquezar, about 45 minutes ago.

  • It's a beautiful place with lots of rest day hikes for those into this type of thing. The hike to the deserted village of Otin is really cool.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 4, 2010
Finding belays should not be a problem so long as there are people around. Being able to use other people ropes is a whole different issue. If I'm headed somewhere without a partner and looking to get belayed I would take my own rope, and again before asking anyone to belay you watch them belay and decide if you think what they are doing is acceptable or not, there are lots of scary belay habits out there and even more so internationally.
By bayouclimb
Jan 19, 2014
Is camping allowed?
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2014
There is a camping area that charges a couple euros a night. It is right next to the Apartahotel Ville de Rodellar which has a little store.