|(05) The Transition Zone
Don't miss this one! Great climbing. The climb can be recognized by three large roofs that the bolt line goes through. Start below the first roof and head straight up. After clipping the third bolt, a reachy move gets you past the large second roof (think, hand Jam, though I have heard of people finding a crimp somewhere). Technical climbing and stemming through the rest of the climb gets you to the anchors.
8 bolts to anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Yeah it's pretty roofy.
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 17, 2006
This route has the best rock at Palomas. For a second I thought I was at Rifle, but then I clipped the chains after 35 feet, and I knew it wasn't so.
|By Dave Wachter|
Mar 2, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
As good as any 5.11 in New Mexico! When you reach the anchors (at least 50ft, though I'll agree it's no rope-stretcher) you won't likely find yourself needing more. Steep and juggy, to steep and technical, to just over vertical and technical. Climbs like a 12a, and could get that rating at some crags. Can get a tenuous rest or two after the roof crux, but this route is characterized by sustained difficult climbing.
|By Jason J Patton|
May 18, 2009
This thing is way harder than Lucky Boy 11c, Quick Draw Mcgraw 11b/c and I think harder than Gunslinger 11d. its certainly more sustained than any of the above. So 11c? 11d? 12a? aah who cares, its a great climb!
|By Aaron James|
May 26, 2014
Great route! It was a bit soggy when I was on it, so I thought it felt 12a at least. maybe its better on a dryer day..