|Rode Hard Wall
Sustained hard burly climbing!!! Climb the vertical face which was much harder than I expected (felt like 12a to me) past three bolts. The hardest moves are between the second and third bolt with some good air time if you blow it.
Make a desperate clip behind your head on the roof and get ready for a fight. Good holds allow you to clip one more bolt before the big crux move. The guide book mentions something about a figure four which I actually tried to no a vale. I finally just got as high as I could and tossed for the ticked hold over the roof which is pretty good if you hit it right.
This route is an amazing endurance power test piece and a must do if your feeling strong.
This route is located right in the center of the Rode Hard wall overhang.
6 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Trying to pull the crux!
Starting Rode Hard and Put Up Wet.
Photo by D. Alb...
Getting ready to head out into the roof.
|By Jesse Ryan|
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Very Nice Climb. I felt the intro slab had thin holds, but good enough feet that I would grade in the mid 11 range. The upper crux felt like a two bolt boulder problem. I wouldn't call the route sustained, mainly powerful. I tend to enjoy sustained routes like the nearby Wind and Rattlesnakes, but the great movement on this route make it a crag classic at the grade.
|By J. Albers|
Jul 13, 2010
I would agree with Jesse that the vertical bottom half of the route was mid 11; it just feels harder because you have to climb through some thinner pockets before the third clip where the fall would be airy. I thought the vertical pocket pulling was fun, but I wasn't a huge fan of the roof portion of the route. I much prefer Burnt Beans at the grade.
Edit: ...oh yes, and I forgot to add... FA Todd Skinner