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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bradley White, Jim Shimberg, 1986
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 604
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 22, 2009
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Under an arch until I was able to stand on top of a block wedged in the arch. 1/4" bolt protected step up from the block over the arch onto a ramp I climbed hard (5-6) to a platform below a shallow corner bolt. This hard (5-7) corner I climbed till it terminated underneath the right side of the large ceiling. Underneath the ceiling it was hard severe (5-8) while traversing below the ceiling. Halfway through the traverse it became no protection until I got in a piton above the ceiling in a crack. A lot of rope went out to clip into the piton. The piton sounded like a good placement and with no good footholds I needed to rest my arms for a while. So I used my head, the top of my head in the granite ceiling so my hands could let go of the rock. I called it a head jam. The head jam also enabled me to extend my arms left to do a hardly extreme (5-10-) to hard severe (5-8) moves until I got to 5-8) Icarusís corner crack. After that I belayed Jim up onto Icarus. I led up Icarusís third (5-7) corner to a grand belay ledge just right of Icarus corner. Then I continued climbing the corner till I could climb left up the slab easily (now 5-3) to Sextet. There was a rock slide that change the finish and the start. Start is now (A1) past the bolt. The corner to the finish is gone and the third pitch is (5-3).


Belay at the top of Sticky Fingers move right and down away from the start of Icarusís climb. Climb slab at bolt.


Trad. rack, old rusted pins, 2 old rusted bolts. Recommend a bolt kit and pins because it's all rusted.

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