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Burning Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Sling T 
Burning Calves T 
Chorus Line T 
Grace Note S 
Happy Hands T 
Rod Serling Crack T 
Ruchert Motion S 
Spiderwand T 
Sportster, The S 
Steve Martin's Face T 
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 
Will To Power, The T 
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Rod Serling Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Okel, Tom Howard
Page Views: 1,695
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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On the right side of Burning Buttress, starts in a left facing dihedral.



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By Sam Stephens
Jun 30, 2010

Good luck keeping the rope out of the crack as you pull the roof. If you're ballsy enough to not place any pro until after the roof you'll be fine. Great climbing, but not what you'd expect when you first look at it.
By P. Sully
Jan 24, 2012

classic route, tough lead for the grade. crazy stemming under the roof.

I always used to rope up w/ doubles for this one and drop one rope after pulling the roof and putting in a bomber anchor to avoid the heinous rope drag.
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Aug 19, 2012

After placing pro at the lip, backclean as far as you can and hopefully you used long slings on the gear lower down. This should keep the rope running smooth. This route is one of the best at the New.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 17, 2012

Just to add to the conversation about the rope getting stuck at the lip: I always just drop a large stopper (can't remember what size) at the lip of the roof, and don't clip it. This keeps the rope out of the crack pretty well.
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