Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Burning Buttress
CAMP USA - Cassin X-Dream Dry Pick

$39.90 24% off

$29.93

at Backcountry

2    more...
Hillsound - Trail Crampon PRO

$78.95 20% off

$63.16

at GearX

3    more...
Giro Xena Cycling Glove

$39.99 25% off

$29.99

at AlsSports

49    more...
Black Diamond Icon Polar Headlamp

$84.95 20% off

$67.96

at Backcountry

2    more...
Petzl Dojo 10.2 Climbing Rope

$690.00 25% off

$517.50

at Backcountry

6    more...
Blackburn Air Tower 2 Bike Pump

$39.99 25% off

$29.99

at AlsSports

   more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Sling 
Burning Calves 
Chorus Line 
Disturbance 
Grace Note 
Happy Hands 
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! 
Rod Serling Crack 
Ruchert Motion 
Spiderwand 
Sportster, The 
Steve Martin's Face 
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam 
Will To Power, The 

Rod Serling Crack 

5.10b

   
1,116 page views
Good page?   

Type: Trad, 75 feet
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
FA: Jim Okel, Tom Howard
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

TBD


Location 

On the right side of Burning Buttress, starts in a left facing dihedral.


Protection 

TBD



Comments on Rod Serling Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Stephens
Jun 30, 2010

Good luck keeping the rope out of the crack as you pull the roof. If you're ballsy enough to not place any pro until after the roof you'll be fine. Great climbing, but not what you'd expect when you first look at it.

By P. Sully
Jan 24, 2012

classic route, tough lead for the grade. crazy stemming under the roof.

I always used to rope up w/ doubles for this one and drop one rope after pulling the roof and putting in a bomber anchor to avoid the heinous rope drag.

By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Aug 19, 2012

After placing pro at the lip, backclean as far as you can and hopefully you used long slings on the gear lower down. This should keep the rope running smooth. This route is one of the best at the New.

By camhead
From: The Old Northwest
Sep 17, 2012

Just to add to the conversation about the rope getting stuck at the lip: I always just drop a large stopper (can't remember what size) at the lip of the roof, and don't clip it. This keeps the rope out of the crack pretty well.