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The Chimney
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Arrow Heads and Pitons T 
North Face Direct T 
Rocky Racoon T 
Smoke on the Horizon T 
Unsorted Routes:

Rocky Racoon 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Charlie Ware, Mike Hill, John Allen, Spring 1975
Page Views: 1,206
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Aug 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Rocky Raccon (5.7), The Chimney, Sandia Mountains,...

Description 

This is a fun, burly old-school 5.7 that protects very well. Although it's a little vague, we tried to follow Hill's description and topo (1993:122-123) as much as possible. It goes, so we must have been nearly on route most of the way. I'm not clear how pitch 1 of this route might relate to Arrow Heads and Pitons.

P1. Climb to a ledge and find a stellar lieback splitter that trends to the right. At the top of that crack, step left around an arete into a V-shaped alcove with a thin splitter on the left. Continue up the weakness to the left and belay on a large sloping ledge. No fixed gear was observed on this pitch.
P2. This pitch is shared with some other climbs like the North Face Direct, and probably AH&P. Start up a deep chimney under a suspended block. Gain the block, and make a bunch of thuggish moves past more overhanging blocks. Pass by an old ring pin and a relic bolt to a large platform below the summit block. A big easy crack then leads to the top.

Location 

Ascends the northern face of the Chimney. Start near the right-hand (west) side, by a log lying right at the base.
Rap as described on the main page.

Protection 

A single set of nuts, 1-1/2 set of cams to 2.5" suffice (we took a #4 C4, but it was not critical). Some old fixed gear is present, but it is of dubious reliability. Gear is necessary for all belays.
The summit has no anchor, so a belayed downclimb back to the lower platform will be necessary.


Photos of Rocky Racoon Slideshow Add Photo
Randy traversing left into the V-shaped alcove on Pitch 1.
Randy traversing left into the V-shaped alcove on ...
Randy following on Pitch 2, at the awkward chimney just below the rappel platform.
Randy following on Pitch 2, at the awkward chimney...

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By Williampenner
From: The 505
Aug 17, 2010

Was this route really three stars? I was over on the Clandestine Wall on Saturday watching you guys climb it and it looked awful except for the flaring chimney.

Glad you enjoyed it at least.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Aug 17, 2010

Ha, anytime I give 3 stars to a Sandia route someone calls me on it. Well, we found some fun splitters, and only one loose rock. Good movement over some heady ground with solid pro, and a summit floating in the sky.
Although it didn't look like much from afar, I found it more satisfying than some more popular comparable stuff like Miss Piggy, for example. YMMV.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is actually a pretty good route, I used to do it quite a bit. For the grade and length it's one of the better routes in the Sandia's. Almost like a hidden gem but with more lichen.
I think Karl Kiser and Chris Kessler did a direct finish to the second pitch climbing straight up the corner and over the roofs above. I think they said it was 5.8+.

The Chimney is very cool formation and worth climbing by any route.
By Jay Carroll
Aug 31, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This felt a bit on the hard side for 5.7, but I think that was partially psychological and partly because I gave myself too much rope drag. It really does start on the west side of the north face. We stumbled on the actual route without being sure, but a post-climb image comparison confirmed it. There were two loose rocks, but they're gone now. We chose to belay in the cave instead of up by the bushes. It was a good belay, but led to more rope drag on pitch 2. I'd really like to give it 2.5 stars. It really is a fun climb.