Rocky Raccoon 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Teena Wells and Ron Akin, 1981 |
| Submitted By: | George Bell on Oct 25, 2001 |
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Dan Hare starting up the tree.
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This is an odd route where the first 40' are a tree! Climbing this route is hard on the tree, and I hope it remains obscure. The route would be much harder without the tree, as it spans a sizable overhang.
It begins only 30' right of the start of the Yellow Spur. Climb a large tree to the lip of an overhang (slings around branches if you want pro). The top of this tree has been beaten down by the traffic and the move getting onto the rock has been getting harder (I'm 6'0", and I'd rate it 5.9 or even harder if you are much shorter). Fortunately, you can place some decent pro in the rock before stepping off the tree (hands just above the overhang). Do not attempt this climb if it is windy.
After the difficult moves over the overhang, head up and left to belay at a tree. The second pitch (nice) follows the same crack system for 50' to a ledge, then continue up parallel cracks (5.9) to a belay. The third pitch climbs a rotten and somewhat unprotected face over a bulge (you can get in more than the #0 RP mentioned by Rossiter), then traverse right to the Upper Ramp.
If you still haven't gotten your fill of tree hugging, head on up E.L.100.
Protection Standard Eldo rack.
Dan Hare nearing the top of the tree.
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Lotus Steele and Dan Hare on the second pitch.
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Leaving the tree... (if that's YOU, PM me for mor...
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| Comments on Rocky Raccoon |
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By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jul 17, 2008
rating: 5.9+
| Looks like the 2 topmost branches of the tree were recently broken off. The transition onto the face is now much harder (and not fun, just awkward). There are much better climbs in the area to do, in my opinion. |
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