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unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer T 
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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: fall to spring
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: sammy raviv on Dec 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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5 hard


Great next level Steele route!! Boulder out and up past old pin to first bolt. Follow feature and ledges past bolts on gorgeous stone to cave like ledge. Pull roof and continue up and right over steep rock(crux).


Left most route on Meathooks Wall. Just down from descent gully and 50 feet right of the old pin route. Main section prior to amphitheater.


bolts and anchors

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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Jan 24, 2012

route has an .11c extension that finishes more or less straight up from the main portion of the line. Original route trends right across top of Meathooks. Also bolts were added down low, diluting the burly style the route was originally climbed in.

'Wa' is apparently (or so we were told at the time) the Japanese word for wisdom.

Great route
By Drew Hellams
From: High Point, NC
May 18, 2012

bernard, et al,
Where did the original route finish? Watford didn't note the ".11c extension" which felt like it began above the pin past the second bolt.
By sammy raviv
Jul 8, 2012

route goes out right from the bolt in the cave 3/4 the way up...11c extension goes straight up from cave.
By Big Bert
From: Birmingham, Al
Dec 16, 2012

From the very beginning, it is obvious that a tall person bolted this route. The moves are full length and clips are far apart. The straight up version is definitely much harder than the version that trends out right. Great route all in all though. Bring your "A" game if you planning for the onsight, this route gets burly.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 10, 2013

I was about to say this was the biggest sandbag I have been on yet, but since it is mentioned that the extension goes at 11c it all makes sense now. The guide makes the 10+ version confusing. A piece of gear in a horizontal at the start definitely takes the edge off.
By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Mar 11, 2013

Originally the route had no bolts. A knifeblade was placed down low......near the first bolt (that was retro-placed many years later to augment it). You had to hitch a sling to the knifeblade because it wasn't driven into the rock all the way to the eye. Below the knifeblade and first bolt you can place a funky, sideways nut....or maybe get a cable-stemmed cam. The route pre-dates cabled cams. You basically did not want to fall until near halfway up the route where there are some solid placements
By Jamie S.
From: Gold River, CA
Oct 16, 2013

I did the 2nd ascent with Les and Mark cheering me on from below, but it was scary. I tied off the knifeblade and then a little higher was a flake that you lassoed with a runner. After that I disappeared into that killer hole and folks below couldn't believe it. I had looked at that wall for many years wondering if anything would go up through there. Maurice sure had an eye for new lines.
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