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Rocketsauce 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Anderson and Brent Hadley
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Riddler on Dec 7, 2008

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Description 

Rocketsauce is a long lead with a few different cruxes. Start on the slightly overhanging face, where a tricky sequence with slippery feet will get you out left and over a bulge. From here, a run up the lower-angled face is significantly easier but there are a few runouts to keep things spicy. The upper wall is steep again, and a unique blocky section, once obtained (harder than it looks), dishes up a nice, tasty lieback.

I would consider this a pretty impressive onsight: pumpy, sustained climbing with committing moves and some not-so-obvious sequences. Some of the clips are pretty scary; I had some serious Elvis-leg going on. Stout and intimidating, but what a rush! A 60m rope is just long enough for a single rap from the anchors.

Location 

Just to the right of Solar Flare on a polished, slightly overhanging face. Look for the silver hangers (the black hangers to the right belong to a newer route not in the book) that ascend up and slightly to the left.

Protection 

10 bolts. Anchors at top.


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By Brian Waters
From: Ogden, UT
Dec 7, 2008

Look out for a loose block on the upper wall. It's on the left side of the dihedral in the gray rock (the upper crux). It can be skipped without much additional effort. Overall, a stellar route for Ogden!