Begins with 5.10 climbing up face and shallow dihedral to very overhung headwall. Climb micro crimps and positive edges through hard, long, bouldery and varied moves. Exit the headwall up and left through more hard moves, gaining decent holds before less overhung, pumpy 5.12 to the chains. Excellent climbing and location despite a few glued holds low on the headwall.
To the right of Genevive, Rocket science is the right-hand climb on the wickedly overhung and improbable looking headwall towards the bottom of north fin.
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 19, 2012
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a
It is important to note that there is a chipped crimp near the top of the steep section. This was done post-FA. No one that I have talked to (and there is only one other person)has done the climb using this chipped crimp. The move is a dyno from the double crimp rail to the jug, foregoing this travesty of a hold. Using it would lower the grade significantly and not be in the same style as the FA.
That being said, this is an absolutely beautiful climb and is full of awesome movement. One of my favorites, for sure.
Oct 19, 2012
Alex, why don't you fill the chipped hold with epoxy and sprinkle with granite dust.