Easy climbing to the first bolt. Get ready for some great exposure on the way to the second bolt. Try to stay out of the dike on the right and learn to trust your scientific judgment of friction coefficients. Come on, climbing isn't rocket science!
100 feet to the left of Pocket Rocket.
4 bolts lead to 2 chains. Bring QDs and a helmet.
May 6, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Easy first clip. Directly between the first and third bolts is all friction and smearing. This is a place you will really learn to trust your shoes. Good idea to bring a helmet, runners for top rope, and spiderman.
May 8, 2006
Best to make the easy clip and then climb from the low arete. Bolt #2 is strangely far left... looked like old holes closer to the corner. You will find new trust in your shoes between 1st and 3rd bolts if you're leading, and theres a nut placement to help with that.
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Mar 25, 2012
Route starts 5.8ish and then moves left past bolts 2 and 3 on pure friction which seemed much harder than 5.8 on both on lead and TR. The climbing at and past 4th bolt is 5.8 again.
If you skip the 2nd bolt and continue straight to 3rd the route is R but consistent at the 5.8 grade.
Seemed silly to take it out left.