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Rocket Man 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Ward Smith, 2000
Page Views: 2,755
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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About to fall again on the red point campus crux a...

Description 

Rocket Man is a line of strength up the most beautiful section of Main Cliff. Start on Thin Man. After the initial boulder problem, rest on the slab. Here, Rocket Man moves left into a lower angled corner. Don't let this angle fool you, as the corner holds some hyper-technical 5.12+ slab climbing.

At the top of the corner, a good edge provides a respite before the crux bulge. A huge incut jug sits above the bulge. Now, how are you to get from the edge to the jug? Most people dyno. This is not a technical deadpoint. It's more like a most-points-off jump with feet flying in the air followed by a considerable outward swing. It is possible to move left and bypass the dyno, but this may involve double thumb underclings. Really.

From the jug, a few taxing high step moves lead to the pump crux: a big move out left to a gaston-jug. Many end the route here by clipping the double bolts and moving right to a no-hands stance. This completes an ascent of "Rocket Boy" 5.13c/d.

To ascend the full Rocket Man, continue on easier climbing, past a 5.12ish roof to the top of the cliff. The rock quality degrades quickly, which in my eyes, makes the full Rocket Man less classic. Since it is possible to fully recover on the no-hands stance at the end of Rocket Boy, this seems a logical ending.

The full Rocket Man (all the way to the top) may only have had a few ascents.

Protection 

Bolts. A 60 meter rope is necessary to lower down from the full route. You may have to lower down to the Rocket Boy anchors and down again.


Photos of Rocket Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rocket Man starts on Thin Man and heads left, foll...
BETA PHOTO: Rocket Man starts on Thin Man and heads left, foll...
a better shot of the entire line to the top of the...
BETA PHOTO: a better shot of the entire line to the top of the...

Comments on Rocket Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 29, 2007
rating: 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a

The top is well worth doing IMO, for the fun exposure if nothing else. The rock is good, just not as pristine as the lower stuff. The bolt at the roof above the first anchor really needs a preplaced sling or the clip becomes very difficult. The rest can be old school redpointed. The lower anchors are great for working the technical moves on TR or hanging your draws. They can be reached easily by ascending one of the easier routes to the right (Underdog or Peanut Man) and traversing across, clipping the the anchors of the intervening routes . ..Such good moves, with a couple that are heinously awkward and technical. One of my favorite challenging routes though I have only successfully TRed it. Deserving of more attempts
By Joe Terravecchia
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

Incredible line. I did the full route and have to agree with Mark. The upper wall, although not as clean as the lower stuff is still quite good. The climbing up there is along with Predator, probably the most exposed at Rumney.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 12, 2012

I was SPENT after making it to the anchors of Rocket Boy. Is the upper part really just as difficult as the lower? (technical? pumpy?) I never see people on the lower half let alone the upper.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a

It is not as hard, but the first time I TRed through Rocket Boy into the top I fell off at the last bolt because I was too pumped to unclip it. It was such a heartbreaker. I figured the top was hardish 12, but you better fully take the rest at the stance near the first anchor. When I linked it, I think I shook out for 10 minutes longer than I felt I needed. It is super pumpy and pretty exposed feeling with good runs between the bolts. Just doing the top from the low anchors would be a good route. There is a kneebar at the lip of the roof.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 9, 2013

I finally played on this one today...

Really amazing rock, hyper technical climbing and super sustained...
I wasn't able to figure out the dyno to the jug but i did manage to stem up to the left and get it static (with zero thumb underclings, though i do love those)...

The hardest part for me was after the jug, getting in to the crimps above... seemed like feet were sparse and the sloper between the jug and the crimp face was not feeling good in the 8o+ degrees and humidity... i feel like this section might be ok if i can get there with any energy left haha... any secret beta for this part anyone?
By Brian Nugent
Aug 15, 2013

By stow
Nov 4, 2013

Lee I have some 6' beta for those moves from the jug I'm happy with if you want. More moves but I think somewhat less crimpy and reachy than what Brian N. does in the video. Let me know via PM.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 24, 2013

Worked this again today and i must say the climbing is SO enjoyable! I love the opening, the corner, the cruxy section to gain the 1st anchor even the little bat i found sleeping in the overhang above :)

i have yet to do the upper section due to conditions (a good layer of melting ice today) but im psyched to take a look soon :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 1, 2014

made good progress today which was fun... but the best part was trying out the giant swinging whipper from the upper section way left of the draw... such a cool spot to be flying around!