Rockaholic 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Mark Meschinelli, Dave Hough, and Chuck Turner (5/6/83) |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on May 24, 2007 |
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Lindsay Duca getting into the business of Rockahol...
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Description At the far left end of the Lower Beer Walls is a left leaning finger crack that splits an otherwise polished face--This is Rockaholic.
Start on low hands and smeary feet to the left of the crack below the obvious finger crack. Easily climb up and right, pulling into the fissure using a few high feet out left and a good hand hold out right.
From here, the beta for the route is simple: Try to keep your left foot pasted to the polished left face while fighting through the rattly and flaired fingercrack.
When the crack ends, move left around the steep block and up to the slung tree above.
Location Far left end of the Lower Beer Walls.
Protection Gear to a red Camalot. Many small pieces in the red, yellow, and green Alien sizes.
BETA PHOTO: condition in early spring
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By doligo
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.8
| The bouldery start is often wet, but the crack stays dry. It has nice "cheater" constrictions for your fingers.
BETA ALERT: you can also layback the crack with better feet on the face to the right, which feels at least a grade easier but gear placements are blind. |
By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Apr 25, 2011
| We were TR'ing Equis 5.7 (about 15 feet right) and successfully linked up the beginning 30-40 feet of Rockaholic (minor swing), traversing right on horizontal cracks to join Equis for its best section(s). Got the best of both climbs (IMO) on top rope with no gear directionals needed. Fun, fun, fun. |
By Ian Dibbs
Jul 8, 2011
| Also started on this route then traversed right to join Equis ... makes for a fun climb. |
By ddriver
From: SLC
Sep 27, 2011
| Did this route last week and that tree is beyond dead. Topped out. Later in the day saw a group of 6 or so TR'ing off the tree. One of you locals should cut the rap slings before someone gets hurt. |
By Eric G.
From: Albany NY
Apr 24, 2012
| Anchor is now two nice bolts. |
By Matt Baer
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.8
| Weird start but once you get in the crack great finger jams and a few hand jams to the top. |
By Drake Pregnall
From: Lake Placid, NY
Nov 12, 2012
rating: 5.8
| The bolts that were the anchor next to the tree have been chopped. Just a heads up. |
By Ryan Morse
Feb 28, 2013
| The bolt anchors were nice while they lasted, however I spoke a local that seemed to be in the know of this chopping, Apparently they were chopped to keep the guides from overusing this great climb I guess while it was bolted big party's were set up TRing it for many hours. The fear of polish and notion of a trip or 2 is OK but hogging all day it is not superseded the ease and saftey of bolted anchors. Cannot say I disagree with the chopping one bit but I am not a local and I did enjoy not having to to either use that rotting stump, small tree, or walk off. |
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