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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
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Roadrunner, The T 
Rock Wren T 
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Such a Poodle T 
White Lightning T 

Rock Wren 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob & Yvonne Gaines, November 1995
Season: East facing
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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studs hiking the wren photo by snickelfritz


An OK route that is worth doing once. The rock quality is a little suspect, but the ease of access and descent make it worthwhile if Hemingway is crawling with folks. A short 5.7 crack leads to a roof & arete. Clip the bolt on the face to the left (not the bolt to the right, as that's for Smoke-a-Bowl), and then climb the bolted face and arete to the top. The crux is the move right past the first bolt.

Toproping The Roadrunner (11c) would be a very worthwhile diversion after climbing this route.


Walk left on a semi-trail from the main Hemingway Buttress area (passing below Overseerer, etc.). The trail will pass below a jumble of rocks with a sloping ledge on top. Scramble up to the ledge. The unmistakable arcing, thin crack of The Roadrunner is on the face just to the left of the route. Start up the thin crack (shared with Smoke-A-Bowl) and then onto the face.


Nuts and/or TCUs and quickdraws. Chains on top.

Photos of Rock Wren Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the one they call snickelfritz
the one they call snickelfritz

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By C Miller
Dec 13, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun climb on good rock, and although near the more popular Hemingway routes, it can be a nice alternative to the crowds found nearby.
By Murf
Oct 1, 2007

Second should be solid, lack of pro after the 3rd bolt means a huge swing if the follower should fall ( although the moves aren't at grade ).

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