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Rock Springs Buttress

Select Route:
"Bacon Strip"  T 
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 
Big Man on Campus S 
Big Wally T 
Blimpie T,S 
Bolt it G T 
Box Car Arete S 
Box Car Boulder  
Chant Down the Wicked S 
Clowns and Jokers T,S 
Coombs Crossover S 
Crucify the Dread S 
d S 
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 
Do It For Doug S 
Exum Arete T,S 
Going Ghandi S 
Grand Central S 
Gray Wall T 
Hobo Rat Race S 
Ice Climb, The T 
Ire' Tower T 
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 
Live to Ski S 
Monkey Flower S 
Mule Skinner S 
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 
No Logo S 
Orange Member S 
Other Ice Climb, The T 
Piton Country T 
Rainbow Country S 
Rasberry Arete S 
Red Route, The T 
Red, Gold and Green S 
Sole Super Power S 
Super Trad T 
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 
Trash Culture S 
Triple Roofs T 
Waste Products S 
Whistle Pigs S 
Wish You Were Here S 
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 
Zion Stormtrooper S 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Rock Springs Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 43.5877, -110.87 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 37,875
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 17, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]


Rock Springs Buttress comes highly recommended. It is a unique and cool climbing experience! The rock quality is generally good (for alpine rock) and the climbs include sport, traditional, and a blend of both. There are a variety of routes and variations, and fixed anchors are plentiful, so linkups are possible.

The rock is granite, though highly fractured and weathered - and occasionally loose. The holds alternate between positive and slick, and the smooth crystalline nature of the rock sometimes make the feet tenuous. Routes may seem a little sandbagged, probably because of the lack of chalk and difficulty in reading the quality of holds from below.

Visitors to this crag are encouraged to get Greg Collins' latest edition of Lander Rock - it includes topos of Rock Springs Buttress. Be sure to get the latest version, as the older version didn't have Rock Springs in it.

Helmets and a 70m rope are strongly recommended.

Watch out for the marmots! One chewed through my rock shoe while it was sitting 20 feet from me. Others attempted to chew through a nearby rope, and one stole a pair of $160 sunglasses. Seriously - keep everything within arms reach and be prepared to defend your equipment!

The crag is west facing and gets morning shade and afternoon sun, and mornings can be chilly so be sure to bring something warm with you.

Getting There 

Drive to Jackson Hole Ski Area and park in the upper lot (behind Teton Mountain Lodge).

Hike up the paved McCollister Road towards the Union Pass lift. Eventually the road dead ends, and a small trail takes off to the left. Take this trail until it hits a service road. Turn left on the service road. Eventually the service road turns into a steep trail that takes you up to the buttress.

You can also mountain bike the first portion, which greatly speeds the return to your car. Stash your bike when the double-track service road turns into a single track.

The trail is steep, but it is a beautiful alpine valley and that helps take your mind off the effort. Expect a 1.5-2 hour approach.

Climbing Season

For the Jackson Hole area.

Weather station 7.3 miles from here

45 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Rock Springs Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Rock Springs Buttress:
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 450'   
Exum Arete   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   
Triple Roofs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 190'   
Monkey Flower   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 125'   
Blimpie   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 125'   
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 79'   
Do It For Doug   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300'   
Direct Start to Exum Arete   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'   
Box Car Arete   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250'   
Whistle Pigs   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'   
Clowns and Jokers   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'   
Knockin' on the Sky   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Rock Springs Buttress

Featured Route For Rock Springs Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: The Big Slab

The Red Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7  WY : Rock Springs Buttress
This is the best winter route I've ever done. I can't recommend it more. (If you are in to that sort of thing) excellent climbing, very hookable, steep and not too hard. Would not be as classic in the summer. (Lots of moss etc.) The first four pitches make a super, well protected M5+ trad route. Not likely a totally new route. We found one shitty pin on pitch 2. Probably an old Andy Carson route. Pitch 1: 28 meters of M5 with 12-15' of 5.9 hand crack. Some climbable hollow flakes at the end of t...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Rock Springs Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Springs Buttress, S. Tetons Wyoming
BETA PHOTO: Rock Springs Buttress, S. Tetons Wyoming
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the approach trail.  This is the left si...
View from the approach trail. This is the left si...
Rock Climbing Photo: Main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. Exum Arete ...
Main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. Exum Arete ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Begin the approach by walking south on the service...
Begin the approach by walking south on the service...
Rock Climbing Photo: June 2006 - this little sign off the service road ...
June 2006 - this little sign off the service road ...
Rock Climbing Photo: What happens if you don't hang your trekking poles...
BETA PHOTO: What happens if you don't hang your trekking poles...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on an unknown route.
Climbers on an unknown route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Springs Buttress from Hwy 22, highlighted.
Rock Springs Buttress from Hwy 22, highlighted.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Springs Buttress as viewed from the road to t...
Rock Springs Buttress as viewed from the road to t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Grand Central-Big Wally-Gray Wall
BETA PHOTO: Grand Central-Big Wally-Gray Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking across from Guide's Route to the central b...
BETA PHOTO: Looking across from Guide's Route to the central b...

Comments on Rock Springs Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By long hair
Mar 13, 2007
hey there.. big fan of RSB. The climbing is world class yet a world of its own. Thanks to the people for there loving efforts to create this much needed crag. Once accustomed to the climbing the grading will seem reasonable, however the local guides are famed for understating difficulty. Several routes have been up-graded or given the +. I recommend the clowns route. Located on the wall to the left of xm arete. Well protected sport at the 5.11 grade. Blimpie is also very fine, good pro, steep movement, and finally a bolted finish, soo good. Thanks Coombs. There will be more to come. Gray wall? 5.14 at the Buttress? Why not!
By steve richert
From: Taunton MA
May 18, 2011
is it possible to bivvy in ones car on this service road?
By Phil Edmonds
May 5, 2012
Rock Springs is meta-gabbro, not granite but similar texture. Its cool looking rock.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jun 19, 2012
Free info on this crag can be found here:
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 24, 2012
Be aware that many of the new routes aren't listed in the topo above.

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