Rock Springs Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Grand Central-Big Wally-Gray Wall
Rock Springs Buttress comes highly recommended. It is a unique and cool climbing experience! The rock quality is generally good (for alpine rock) and the climbs include sport, traditional, and a blend of both. There are a variety of routes and variations, and fixed anchors are plentiful, so linkups are possible.
The rock is granite, though highly fractured and weathered - and occasionally loose. The holds alternate between positive and slick, and the smooth crystalline nature of the rock sometimes make the feet tenuous. Routes may seem a little sandbagged, probably because of the lack of chalk and difficulty in reading the quality of holds from below.
Visitors to this crag are encouraged to get Greg Collins' latest edition of Lander Rock - it includes topos of Rock Springs Buttress. Be sure to get the latest version, as the older version didn't have Rock Springs in it.
Helmets and a 70m rope are strongly recommended.
Watch out for the marmots! One chewed through my rock shoe while it was sitting 20 feet from me. Others attempted to chew through a nearby rope, and one stole a pair of $160 sunglasses. Seriously - keep everything within arms reach and be prepared to defend your equipment!
The crag is west facing and gets morning shade and afternoon sun, and mornings can be chilly so be sure to bring something warm with you.
Drive to Jackson Hole Ski Area and park in the upper lot (behind Teton Mountain Lodge).
Hike up the paved McCollister Road towards the Union Pass lift. Eventually the road dead ends, and a small trail takes off to the left. Take this trail until it hits a service road. Turn left on the service road. Eventually the service road turns into a steep trail that takes you up to the buttress.
You can also mountain bike the first portion, which greatly speeds the return to your car. Stash your bike when the double-track service road turns into a single track.
The trail is steep, but it is a beautiful alpine valley and that helps take your mind off the effort. Expect a 1.5-2 hour approach.
Weather station 7.3 miles from here
47 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Rock Springs Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Rock Springs Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Rock Springs Buttress:
Exum Arete 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'
Triple Roofs 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 190'
Monkey Flower 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 125'
Blimpie 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 125'
Do It For Doug 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300'
Box Car Arete 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250'
Whistle Pigs 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Rock Springs Buttress
Exum Arete 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WY
: Rock Springs Buttress
This route is reason enough to visit Rock Springs Buttress. The Exum Arete takes an improbable line up a stunning arete and does so a modest grade. The climbing is fun, rock quality superb, belays fixed, and the protection plentiful.Pitch 1 (5.7) - A relatively junky approach pitch. Begin at a flat spot below a big tree, and yard away on roots and trees. Continue up the crack and make a 5.7 move up and right to gain a huge, dirty ledge system. Walk across this ledge system all the way to an...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
BETA PHOTO: RSB Big Wally S Face: Left to Right: Red = Do It F...
Main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. Exum Arete ...
Rock Springs Buttress from Hwy 22, highlighted.
BETA PHOTO: Looking across from Guide's Route to the central b...
BETA PHOTO: What happens if you don't hang your trekking poles...
Climbers on an unknown route.
June 2006 - this little sign off the service road ...
Begin the approach by walking south on the service...
View from the approach trail. This is the left si...
Rock Springs Buttress as viewed from the road to t...
By long hair
Mar 13, 2007
hey there.. big fan of RSB. The climbing is world class yet a world of its own. Thanks to the people for there loving efforts to create this much needed crag. Once accustomed to the climbing the grading will seem reasonable, however the local guides are famed for understating difficulty. Several routes have been up-graded or given the +. I recommend the clowns route. Located on the wall to the left of xm arete. Well protected sport at the 5.11 grade. Blimpie is also very fine, good pro, steep movement, and finally a bolted finish, soo good. Thanks Coombs. There will be more to come. Gray wall? 5.14 at the Buttress? Why not!
By steve richert
From: Taunton MA
May 18, 2011
is it possible to bivvy in ones car on this service road?
By Phil Edmonds
May 5, 2012
Rock Springs is meta-gabbro, not granite but similar texture. Its cool looking rock.
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Sep 24, 2012
Be aware that many of the new routes aren't listed in the topo above.