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Rock Springs Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Wally T 
Blimpie T,S 
Box Car Arete S 
Clowns and Jokers T,S 
Coombs Crossover S 
Crucify the Dread S 
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 
Do It For Doug S 
Exum Arete T,S 
Going Ghandi S 
Grand Central S 
Hobo Rat Race S 
Ire' Tower T 
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 
Live to Ski S 
Monkey Flower S 
Mule Skinner S 
Rasberry Arete S 
Sole Super Power S 
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 
Triple Roofs T 
Waste Products S 
Whistle Pigs S 
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 
Zion Stormtrooper S 
Unsorted Routes:

Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Rock Springs Buttress 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 43.5877, -110.87 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,442
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 17, 2006
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Rock Springs Buttress, S. Tetons Wyoming

Description 

Rock Springs Buttress comes highly recommended. It is a unique and cool climbing experience! The rock quality is generally good (for alpine rock) and the climbs include sport, traditional, and a blend of both. There are a variety of routes and variations, and fixed anchors are plentiful, so linkups are possible.

The rock is granite, though highly fractured and weathered - and occasionally loose. The holds alternate between positive and slick, and the smooth crystalline nature of the rock sometimes make the feet tenuous. Routes may seem a little sandbagged, probably because of the lack of chalk and difficulty in reading the quality of holds from below.

Visitors to this crag are encouraged to get Greg Collins' latest edition of Lander Rock - it includes topos of Rock Springs Buttress. Be sure to get the latest version, as the older version didn't have Rock Springs in it.

Helmets and a 70m rope are strongly recommended.

Watch out for the marmots! One chewed through my rock shoe while it was sitting 20 feet from me. Others attempted to chew through a nearby rope, and one stole a pair of $160 sunglasses. Seriously - keep everything within arms reach and be prepared to defend your equipment!

The crag is west facing and gets morning shade and afternoon sun, and mornings can be chilly so be sure to bring something warm with you.


Getting There 

Drive to Jackson Hole Ski Area and park in the upper lot (behind Teton Mountain Lodge).

Hike up the paved McCollister Road towards the Union Pass lift. Eventually the road dead ends, and a small trail takes off to the left. Take this trail until it hits a service road. Turn left on the service road. Eventually the service road turns into a steep trail that takes you up to the buttress.

You can also mountain bike the first portion, which greatly speeds the return to your car. Stash your bike when the double-track service road turns into a single track.

The trail is steep, but it is a beautiful alpine valley and that helps take your mind off the effort. Expect a 1.5-2 hour approach.


Climbing Season


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',5],['5.12',6],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rock Springs Buttress:
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 450'   
Triple Roofs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 190'   
Exum Arete   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   
Monkey Flower   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 125'   
Do It For Doug   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300'   
Clowns and Jokers   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in Rock Springs Buttress

Featured Route For Rock Springs Buttress
Took the tram to the top and hiked Summit Trail ~1.3Miles to Rock Springs Loop and then traversed across a scree field. Caution: Very steep grade on Rock Springs Loop. Another option is to hike up from Teton Village ~7Miles

Direct Start to Exum Arete 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  WY : Rock Springs Buttress
The 10.c crux is between the 6th and 7th bolt....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Local Information for Rock Springs Buttress
Photos of Rock Springs Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Looking across from Guide's Route to the central buttress in the vicinity of the route 'Ptarmigan Tower'.
BETA PHOTO: Looking across from Guide's Route to the central b...
View from the approach trail.  This is the left side of Rock Spring Buttress.  The valley of Jackson Hole is below.
View from the approach trail. This is the left si...
Main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. Exum Arete is the right edge of the huge cleft.
Main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. Exum Arete ...
Begin the approach by walking south on the service road from the tram.  It is about a 1.5 mile walk (past 2 switchbacks) to the approach trail.  It takes about 30 minutes to get to the approach trail, and then another 20 to the base of the buttress.  It's all downhill at least!
Begin the approach by walking south on the service...
June 2006 - this little sign off the service road marks the approach trail down to the buttress.  We left our packs here (hang them!)
June 2006 - this little sign off the service road ...
What happens if you don't hang your trekking poles - the marmots eat your rubber grips! grrrrrr
BETA PHOTO: What happens if you don't hang your trekking poles...
Rock Springs Buttress as viewed from the road to the Jackson Hole Ski Area
Rock Springs Buttress as viewed from the road to t...
Rock Springs Buttress from Hwy 22, highlighted.
Rock Springs Buttress from Hwy 22, highlighted.
Climbers on an unknown route.
Climbers on an unknown route.
Comments on Rock Springs Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By long hair
Mar 13, 2007

hey there.. big fan of RSB. The climbing is world class yet a world of its own. Thanks to the people for there loving efforts to create this much needed crag. Once accustomed to the climbing the grading will seem reasonable, however the local guides are famed for understating difficulty. Several routes have been up-graded or given the +. I recommend the clowns route. Located on the wall to the left of xm arete. Well protected sport at the 5.11 grade. Blimpie is also very fine, good pro, steep movement, and finally a bolted finish, soo good. Thanks Coombs. There will be more to come. Gray wall? 5.14 at the Buttress? Why not!

By steve richert
From: San Diego, CA
May 18, 2011

is it possible to bivvy in ones car on this service road?

By Phil Edmonds
May 5, 2012

Rock Springs is meta-gabbro, not granite but similar texture. Its cool looking rock.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jun 19, 2012

Free info on this crag can be found here:

www.tetonclimbing.com/pdf/RockSpringsButt.pdf

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 24, 2012

Be aware that many of the new routes aren't listed in the topo above.