This is one of the best beginner cliffs in NH. But some how the crowds don't flock here on the weekends like they do to Rumney, Pawtuckaway, Echo Crag etc. even though many drive right by Rimmon to get to those other crags. Why? well, rock Rimmon is ghetto. From the glass glistening on the ground and sometimes in the hold, you are reaching for to the sea of beer cans and other assorted litter. There are heckling teenagers, couples fighting in their yards, and the view of Manchester's west side right on to the millyard. That's before getting in to how the glass got there in the first place, you guessed it, the locals make a game of throwing their beer bottles off the cliff, and if they get drunk enough, they might even aim for the climbers. It doesn't have to be this way. If the park got more traffic from climbers and non-climbers the sketchy and often illegal activities would slow enough for us to make a difference. There is always some motivated local working hard to make a difference at rimmon. If enough of us take part we could win this age old battle.
So, why do people climb at Rock Rimmon anyway? Well, it's kind of like a drunken one night stand. It is actually quite fun, until you wake up in the morning and have to look in the mirror. haha.
In all seriousness, the real reason there is always chalk on the cliffs of Rock Rimmon Park is that the climbing is really fun, the rock is interesting and of perfect quality, and it is the easiest cliff to get to in southern NH. It has a slew of moderates from slabs to faces and even some cracks and a couple of more challenging routes. The location is the problem which makes a cliff that would be worshiped by the climbing community become disrespected and pissed on by punk ass city kids. Despite the clean up efforts of local climbers bent on making Rock Rimmon a nice place to climb, nothing has really changed much.
So, what do we do until we can take back Rimmon? I use the cliff from time to time, but I take a few steps to make sure I can stay safe.
-Always wear a helmet (as bottles do fly off the top). -If there are people around that sketch you out, leave. Or call the cops if what they are doing might be illegal. -Watch your anchor. I've heard stories of punks dropping people's ropes without a care that that might be someone's life line. if you can't see your anchor while you belay consider belaying from the top. -Don't lunge for holds, they might be filled with glass. Climb in control to avoid cutting your fingers. -Weekday mornings and afternoons seem to be the best time to visit the cliffs to avoid sketchy activity.
I know I'm not selling the cliff well, and I'm not trying to, but let me say this. if you took Rock Rimmon and put it in North Conway or another established climbing area, it would be the most popular beginner cliff around for both top-roping and learning to lead climb. There are solid eyebolt anchors at the top of many of the climbs from the left end slabs all the way to the steeper right hand side. So, stay safe and enjoy this cliff as Charlie Brown once said "all it needs is a little love".
Getting There
On Manchester's west side, take Bremer St west..take a right on to Montgomery St.... Then a left on to Mason St.... You will see the cliff at Rock Rimmon Park....
There are many options, but that is the basic idea....
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rock Rimmon (Manchester):
A local favorite for sure... At the left end of the cliff before you get to the slab look for a nice big flake near the top of the cliff on a white face... That is the key feature on Creatures Creation...Start as for Powder Puff up the layback corner 10 feet right of Little Overhang... Climb the slab above heading for the white face and the nice flake... Mantle a 2" wide ledge and gain the left facing flake... Climb the flake and mantel to a slightly better stance on a small ledge... Climb up an...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
it is odd to look back and think of an area that was so urban, trashed and at times scary and yet a launching pad for a hack that loved the sport so much and still looks back on it fondly. thanks for raking the glass off the bottem base.
Besides face to face and the little overhang are there any other bolder problems here, for instance are there any actual boulders that are not on the cliff?
im sure lee is a good one to answer that but i gotta say be careful out there. i once had a phone book fly down 5 feet from me off the top of the cliff.... and ive heard of ropes being cut
Yeah I have done some roped climbing here and toped out to find a group of teens smoking a joint just feet from my rope and the glass is horrible... but I thank you for your concern, I was hoping to find a some boulders to avoid the rope issue...
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 29, 2008
around the back side there is some bouldering potential on short walls though i dont know whats been done there... but no real boulders to speak of...
For your location, you'd probably have a much more enjoyable time heading up 102E to Raymond, then 107W to Reservoir Rd, entering Pawtuckaway State Park.
If you're in Manchester and its rainy (again...), you might be able to find a local climber at Vertical Dreams that's itching to get outside too.
haha jeff i hadnt read the comments far enough and i was about to say VD aswell lol :) but ya rainy day or nor its a great place to meet locals who would love to find new partners :) me included!
What potential this place has! Broken Glass every where, people pissin on the streets cuz they just don't care...Not really any sketchy kids there just talk to the locals they are totally fine to deal with. If your a rich hippy climber you may be intimidated by the people but you probably yell "take" a lot too. Just cuz these kids don't listen to phish and tour with Widespread doesn't mean they are any threat.
do most of the climbs here have fixed anchors for TR?
By Ryan HInrichs From: amherst new hampshire Mar 18, 2012
Funny story about rimmon actually, Today i was topping out on Creatures Creation to hear three teenagers crying on the phone with the police saying that there was a large man chasing them up the cliff with a knife and that they need help. Nothing ended up happening, police showed up and secured everything, but it sure scared the shit out of me. Be careful at rimmon, you never know what to expect!
Great cliff but Manchester's low income housing or Ghetto is its back yard. That's how it was in the eighties. Last time I was there and there was much glass on the holds. First visit had a sharp introduction to the glass Rimmon. Carried a miniature whisk broom after that. It worked well at getting the glass off of holds. Most bottles got broken throwing them up at the cliff, from the ground. We and I, crunched on glass at the base of the cliff. Maybe the ground looks like a glass mosaic now? Didn't need a helmet then. Place was near the ghetto and seems like the adolescent ghetto behavior has reached 'The Rimmon'. Things have definitely not improved and possibly become worse. Its sad. Very good, rock conglomerate that's not like climbing anywhere else. We and I did many routes. It was a popular free solo area except for the far right side.
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