Climb up 20 feet of easy, broken ledges and clip the first bolt of the route on the smoother area directly above the broken area. Using underclings, reachy moves to small pockets and small-to-non-existent feet, get to the second bolt.
Use some fun holds on the top edge of the smooth area, and then start up through an increasingly overhanging section using pockets and crimps. This part is quite pumpy, and just when youíre sure you canít hold on anymore, the pockets get smaller and less positive. After the last bolt haul yourself to easier terrain on some big edges and climb up another ten feet to the ledge with the chains.
This is a really fun climb. Even when Escape Buttress has been crowded Iíve never seen anyone on this route (or either of its two neighbors).
This route is located on a bulge about 50 feet before the west end of Escape Buttress proper and is one of three routes that you encounter on your left on the way to Escape.
This is the left-most of the three routes; note that the bolts for the right-most of the routes are hard to spot. Looking at the bulge described above there is a smoother, blank-appearing area about 20 feet up from the trail. This route starts on the left of the two bolts at the bottom of the smoother area.
8 bolts, chain anchors (shared with the route to the right).
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The bottom choss is quite easy. Once you clip the first bolt the rock quality increases dramatically (following many hours of choss gardening reuqired to establish the line). The original finish went straight past the final bolt but I think it is a bit easier if you drift right and clip off left. A very quality line for the grade.