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Unsorted Routes:

Rock Pigs 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Page Views: 1,161
Submitted By: ferrells on May 19, 2006
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brandon near the third bolt of rock pigs, november...

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Rock Pigs is a mostly fun route that offers thoughtful cruxes and great position. By no means would I recommend climbing this if you have not done Mississippi Burning, Living All Over Me, Femme Fatale, Advanced Birding, Light My Fire, or Preemptive Strike. But if you are local, and need something after having done these routes, Rock Pigs is the climb for you.
The most powerful moves are at the start (which can be a little disquieting, if you don't know they're the hardest moves), and they give way to fun, pretty easy climbing for twenty feet or so.
The crux, illustrated vividly at right, is fun, and allows for some creativity. For a couple of suggestions for beta, check the comments below. The rest of the route allows you to work on your climbing-shitty-rock-without-pulling anything-off skills.
Update: with about fifty times as many people able to climb 12+ in MN now, compared to when I climbed this, this route is getting a lot of attention, and is getting cleaner. Next time someone gets on it, could you post information onthe status of its hardware? That was its other black eye, for sure, when I did it.



Photos of Rock Pigs Slideshow Add Photo
brandon cruxing on rock pigs, november, 2010.
brandon cruxing on rock pigs, november, 2010.
brandon about at the second bolt of rock pigs, november, 2010.
brandon about at the second bolt of rock pigs, nov...
brandon at the crux of rock pigs on a busy fall day, november, 2010.
brandon at the crux of rock pigs on a busy fall da...
brandon about a third the way up rock pigs, november, 2010.
brandon about a third the way up rock pigs, novemb...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 31, 2013
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 4, 2006

Anchors are looking terribly rusted. Use the bail biner on the last bolt to lower.

By Jordan Seering
Sep 15, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Any beta for the crux?

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Yeah, I put that biner on the last bolt last year when I did the route. When I lowered off, I ran the rope through the anchors, and clipped that biner in case the anchor failed, hoping that others would leave it there and do the same to be safe.
It'd be nice if people left it there until the anchors were fixed so that no one has to fall sixty feet.
The route has two hard sections. The first couple of moves are the most powerful, with a couple of long reaches to holds pointing the wrong way while you're smearing on little greasy stuff. Once established on the layback and crimps, the climbing is easier and fun for perhaps twenty feet.
The second challenging section, what I think you're talking about Jordan, comes up next. I tried it by establishing on a couple of okay crimps and throwing my left hand far up to the left to an invisible hold. This ended up being hit or miss for me, so I found a small, sharp gaston crimp for my right hand. Combined with a high foot, it's possible to do the move to the good crimp on the left in a more static manner.
From there, it's choss to the anchors. Not to put down the route, but this section is fairly exciting for it's dirtiness. I broke several holds on the finish last year, and took a big screaming fall when both of my handholds ripped off almost simultaneously. That said, the cruxes below are great, and the route is worth doing.

By Brandonbus
Apr 6, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Like "Light My Fire" to its right, "Rock Pigs" is another under-appreciated route on the winter wall. Really fun with a big move mid route. Good rests between hard climbing.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

cheers to you ferrels, but i can't use that right-hand gaston beta for the crux. i think it's just best to do the move to the edge.

also, i think the moves above the crux are fun. particularly, i like the moves -- moving off the sloping dish to the pocketed crimps -- from the last bolt to the "anchor" (the leaver biner at the true last bolt).

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 10, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

cool! well maybe that upper section is cleaning up a little now that the route is getting more attention.

By AntVicino
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

This is a really good route. Really fun movement all the way through. In my opinion I think it is better than Mississippi Burning, Preemptive Strike, and Advanced Birding. The best 12c at Red Wing in my mind.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 5, 2010
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

better than mississippi, really? i agree that rock pigs is better than preemptive and advanced birding.

i think the best 12c's (in order) are: mississippi burning, femme fatale, and rock pigs.

i think relentless direct should be thrown in there, too. but it's considered by most a 12d. on that note, i don't consider preemptive or advanced birding as 12c. that's because i'm a sandbagging snob. :)

By AntVicino
Nov 6, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Randy, I agree with you on Advanced Birding and Preemptive Strike not being 12c.. Preemptive is barey 12b, Advanced Birding is barely 12a.. in my book atleast.

Yeah, I do think Rock Pigs is better than Mississippi. Mississippi has a giant standing no hands rest midway through making it not very sustained at all. With that rest, I have a hard time even calling Mississippi 12c to be honest.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 7, 2010
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

yea, in regards to that rest on mississippi, i hear you. that's why i skip that rest and anything to do with the crack. this makes me feel entitled and better than anyone. sorry, dude. that's just how the system works. :)

By AntVicino
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Ha! That's perfect, man! Then again, that means Mississippi is an eliminate.. tsk tsk..

By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Nov 16, 2012

Sad. :(

By Tyler
Jan 14, 2013

Well, another Red Wing classic suffers a brutal blow. You know the hard start, going to the big flake with a rad, right-hand gaston move? GONE. That flake is poof bam seeya outta here gone. I only saw it. Havent' tried the beginning since. Anyone?
New route!

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 31, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Yeah. It looks much harder now.