This line marks the right hand end of the Headstone and starts off the trail just before dropping below a large detached boulder. Ascend some of the only South Platte crystal climbing at Devil's Head for 30 feet. Move right and fire straight into the chocolate criss-crosses to the top. The route finishes in strenuous long reaches on perfect stone, and it packs the pumpy crux at the very end.
QDs only, but 90 feet long, so bring 15 or so QD plus something for the double bolt anchor.
|By Zachary Thomas|
Sep 1, 2001
Great climb, you will need you bag of tricks for this one. you need to smear stem,jam, and make a few powerfull moves to make it to the top (a great onsight)
Jul 7, 2003
I agree with the grade. The rating, two stars? Maybe after the maids finish cleaning it.I broke off two holds. One at the start and one at the second crux (small bulge). This is a great route that needs more traffic! Filled with tricky sequences. The top is amazing. Bring a umbrella for your belayer, Lichen City!
Oct 6, 2007
Good route. Long with good rests. Tough on sight but everything is there. Kicked off some crap, thankfully I was high enough that my belayer had time to move.
|By Tzilla Rapdrilla|
Jul 31, 2008
FA - poached with permission (the other guys did the work) - July 1994
|By Kevin Neilson|
Oct 18, 2010
What a great route! I didn't find it to be dirty; perhaps it has cleaned up in recent years. It's a long one--it uses most of a 60m rope--and comprises a large-crystalled section at the bottom, bulgy overhangs, and a blank overhanging face at the top. The crux is after the last bolt and involves making a deadpoint from poor feet to a three-finger pinch. I considered the detached block (seen in the main photo where the climber's left foot rests) to be off-route. If it's not, that could make the crux easier.
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Really fun route with a great finish. Lower crux is interesting, upper crux might favor the tall.