|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Scott Gilliam on Jun 16, 2011|
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By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Jun 16, 2011
|IMHO this route is every bit as classic as Party Til Yer Blind. The climbing is continuously engaging, but not continuously protectable. Bring your balance and a cool head, and prepare to make committing moves well above your gear. The 000 C3 is not mandatory as the bolt is close, but the traverse to the bolt would be a grim prospect w/o a carefully placed purple TCU.|
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unless I accidentally did a linkup with the 10D R route to the left, the runouts are substantial on this one. The first crux is a 15 foot sequence well above small gear, and has good groundfall potential if you were to blow it.
I didn't find any gear for the 15+ foot traverse back to the lone bolt, resulting in another scary sequence.
I'm surprised that the guidebook doesn't comment on the spiciness of the climb. In addition, some of the stone is still delicate in spots around and past the lone bolt.
Double up on small c3s or TCUs and bring singles in hand-sized gear.
Feb 22, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
This is a heady lead and definitely PG-13 but its also a great route!
Save a #2 C4 for the pod near the top.