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Broken Tooth
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unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 

Rock Lobster 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,975
Submitted By: William McGehee on Oct 4, 2003

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Into the crux on Rock Lobster. To the right are I...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route lies approximately 50' to the right of the leaning pillar that defines Brokentooth Wall at the top of the approach trail. Cupping hands for the first 80', with rests in four or five flares fairly evenly spaced after 50'. Narrows to fingers near the top for the crux. Traverse right, go up, then back left to avoid the .11b if necessary. Can be TR'd with two 60's but you have to get around the knot. Great route!


Six or seven 3's for the first 80' or so, one number 2, two 1.5's, and two 1's for the crux (finget stacking crack) to the chains.

Photos of Rock Lobster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: I played photographer on this climb.  Friend of mi...
I played photographer on this climb. Friend of mi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dr. Mike starting the crux finger-stacking. I didn...
Dr. Mike starting the crux finger-stacking. I didn...
Rock Climbing Photo: great climb
great climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Carol approximately 15' up Rock Lobster. Note the ...
Carol approximately 15' up Rock Lobster. Note the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: its this long and its this good
its this long and its this good
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruisin the splitter perfect hands
Cruisin the splitter perfect hands
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Lobster
Rock Lobster
Rock Climbing Photo: Love those slammer hands!
Love those slammer hands!
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Lobster, long and fun
Rock Lobster, long and fun
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug climbs.
Doug climbs.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heather at the crux
Heather at the crux

Comments on Rock Lobster Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2014
By Joe Collins
Oct 21, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is an all-time Indian Creek classic and probably one of the softer 11s you'll ever do. Its a great intro to finger stacks, since the crux section is less than vertical and there are slightly wider parts for the feet. If there are cars already parked at Broken Tooth when you arrive, then you best go elsewhere since there isn't a huge selection of climbs and everyone wants to do Rock Lobster.
By Jay 1975
From: Colorado
May 22, 2005

now there is a few short warm-ups to the left.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route is about 35 meters long and can just barely be toproped with a single 70m. Great pitch, pretty hard at the end, I would say it is solid 5.11.
By m-earle
From: USA
Nov 13, 2006

I dissagree with the first comment. rock lobster is probably the easyest/best climb at broken tooth, but the relativly small buttress has many other stellar climbs.
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Feb 3, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fantastic climb! I would highly recommend this one to everybody. Great finish.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
Mar 23, 2008

This is the best route I've done in the Creek so far. There's an ever so slight offset during the hands section, so figure out how to deal with it quickly or it'll upset your rhythm constantly.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2008

I only took 2 #3s. Plenty of #2s though. Excellent cruiser hands up to that last pod. Great, tough finish. I learned how to ring lock on this one. My only question is who didn't give this thing 4 stars? Amazing!!
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
Nov 23, 2008

I think the gear list means #3 friends, which are about equivalent to #2 camalots.
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Apr 7, 2010

Three #3 camalots- unless you like climbing above tipped out #2s
By Phill T
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

the whole thing is less than vertical so you can stay on your feet really well. first 70% is nice hands (mostly blue c4s) to a no hands rest pod. gradually tightens down to purple c4s with the occasional small pod to help slot feet and hands. Get on it!
By Tom Carruthers
Feb 17, 2014

I am glad people are enjoying this route . I named it based on the B 52's song .
By drini13
Oct 12, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Superb climb! I'd give this a 5.10+ rating for those with small hands. Excellent finish

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