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 ADVANCED
Terminator Amphitheatre
Select Route:
Albino Black Sheep S 
Rock, Ice and Fistfights T 
Terminator Pillar T 

Rock, Ice and Fistfights 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a WI/AI? M?

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA:  unclimbed and open
Season: Fall or Winter
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: john walker on Feb 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

I have not climbed this route so I'm not giving a star rating. This route is intended as a warm up,it's a climbable bolted line. The start is a bit chossy but will clean up after some ascents. the route follows big holds and what look like good moves along the left side of the cave to an anchor.

Protection 

6 bolts and an anchor.You may want to girth hitch the first bolt and clip. Neutrino biners work well but larger b's may crossload and be difficult to clip.


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By Ryan Minton
Oct 26, 2004

John- does the 5.9+ rating reflect the grade that the route would garner if climbd during the summer in rock shoes? And how would this translate to the M ratings...M6/7? Looks like some cool development, I'd like to know more about the ratings and the context they apply themselves to. Thanks!
By john walker
Oct 26, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Ryan,In the advanced ice climbing book by Craig Leubben, His correlation from rock to the m system goes something like this: M4 5.8, m5 5.9, m6 5.10, m7 5.11, m8 5.12. I'm going with that. These are very repeatable bolted routes. Oh yeah, theres another bolted line to the right of the cave. To find it walk west along the cliff band. There is no anchor, top out and belay from tree. Find the easy way down, a short rap off the cliff band to the South West.