Rock, Ice and Fistfights 5.9+ WI/AI? M?
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | unclimbed and open |
| Season: | Fall or Winter |
| Submitted By: | john walker on Feb 1, 2004 |
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Description I have not climbed this route so I'm not giving a star rating. This route is intended as a warm up,it's a climbable bolted line. The start is a bit chossy but will clean up after some ascents. the route follows big holds and what look like good moves along the left side of the cave to an anchor.
Protection 6 bolts and an anchor.You may want to girth hitch the first bolt and clip. Neutrino biners work well but larger b's may crossload and be difficult to clip.
| Comments on Rock, Ice and Fistfights |
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By Ryan Minton
Oct 26, 2004
| John- does the 5.9+ rating reflect the grade that the route would garner if climbd during the summer in rock shoes? And how would this translate to the M ratings...M6/7? Looks like some cool development, I'd like to know more about the ratings and the context they apply themselves to. Thanks! |
By john walker
Oct 26, 2004
rating: 5.9
| Ryan,In the advanced ice climbing book by Craig Leubben, His correlation from rock to the m system goes something like this: M4 5.8, m5 5.9, m6 5.10, m7 5.11, m8 5.12. I'm going with that. These are very repeatable bolted routes. Oh yeah, theres another bolted line to the right of the cave. To find it walk west along the cliff band. There is no anchor, top out and belay from tree. Find the easy way down, a short rap off the cliff band to the South West. |
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