Sean enjoying the splitter finger crack of Split ...
This is a great destination with a wealth of moderates stretched out along a featured wall in a scenic location. Choose from excellent knobby cracks, some face climbs as well as some fun crack/face routes. This is an excellent wall to spend a few hours or all day. East facing - so morning sun and afternoon shade.
From Quail Springs Rd turn right at the Lost Horse Rd. (graded dirt) which is 7.5 miles from the Entrance Station and 2.0 miles from Trash Can Rock. Proceed 0.3 miles to a turnout on the left. Note- this is a very popular area with very limited parking, so you may need to park elsewhere and walk a bit further. There is a trail which starts from the parking area, but quickly you are scrambling on rocks which makes it hard to find the best path. Lastly this wall is the back side of the Lost Horse Wall and across from the Freeway and Tiny Tots Rock.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rock Garden Valley:
The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of Rock-a-Lot. Once above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection before the first bolt. Easy moves lead up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves (crux) and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before petering ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
^^^^^^^^ Like many walls in J-Tree it seems they are either always in the shade or always in the sun. Amazing how some crags are basically due north but get full sun in the summer.
Much like this area the shade/sun is totally dependent on time of year. In late spring/summer you have sun both mornings and afternoons. People get tricked thinking it will have shade in the afternoon but the sun sets so far to the north it just beams into the corridor in the afternoon. Just as fall starts (mid-October) does the wall stay in the shade after 10 or 11am but beware with every day closer to November you lose more and more am light and eventually get none.