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Sundown Ledge - Lost Horizon
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Bloody Horn, The 
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Rock Garden  

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Ed Webster and Billy Squier, summer of 1995
Page Views: 1,363
Submitted By: James Colin Walsh on Oct 18, 2009
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12 year old Indigo getting ready to clean the gear...

Description 

A nice and mild crack climb on the first pitch and a clean slab on the second. This climb utilizes almost every move in the book (jamming, stemming, liebacking, face climbing, friction).
1. Climb the obvious left facing corner and crack (5.4) up to a short chimmney. Squirm through this up to ledges and nice 2 bolt belay.
2. Friction up the slab above the belay to the trees.


Location 

The route starts just to the right of a large, prominent overlap/roof (about seven to ten feet off the ground) by the cliffs left hand side. The crack, corner, and chimney of Rock Garden is very obvious
To descend rappel twice with a 60m rope from the top of P2 or once if you choose only to climb P1.


Protection 

Bring a standard trad rack. There are no bolts or pitons. ( But the P1 belay is fixed bolts and the at the top of P2 there is a tree)



Photos of Rock Garden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Garden <br />
Rock Garden
Me on lead, almost to the tree anchor.
Me on lead, almost to the tree anchor.
First time climber at the top.  A bit of rope management beta- if you set up a top rope on this one, watch those 2 cracks at the top.  We had the rope get stuck today on a lower because the climbers side was on top of the belay side...  Made for an interesting couple of minutes!
First time climber at the top. A bit of rope mana...
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By Dan Felix
Oct 20, 2013

First off, there really is no second pitch to this. Secondly, the anchor for this one is a tree directly above the chimney- there are no bolts on this one.

Did this one today for the second time, the first time was earlier in the spring and there was tat on the tree to anchor on (as I recall, I added webbing to what was there). Today there was absolutely nothing there. I left what I could as an anchor (webbing, quicklink and a spare bail 'biner), but if you do this one go prepared to leave some tat. There is a 2 bolt anchor for the route to the right, but they are probably 15' over and simple hangers with no rings.