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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Baby Sitter T 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Jimmy G T 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 

Rock For Climbing Routes To 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alec Sharp, Muriel Sharp, Matt Lavender
Page Views: 753
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Mar 17, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Rock For Climbing Routes To.

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

(Note: the person who orignally submitted this route only described the last pitch. Here is a complete description of the route.)

This is an entertaining route with a burly roof on the first pitch. I've never seen anyone climb the crux pitch or know anyone who has. When my partner was following the first pitch, some passersby asked me about the route. One said that it looked "rowdy"; I can't disagree.

The route starts just to the left of the dihedral on the first pitch of Break on Through. Scramble easily up to the dihedral, but veer left. The feature to climb will be obvious from the ground. When you're positioned under the roof, you'll realize that it's just as steep as it looks from the ground.

Pitch 1 (11c): climb the overhanging flake and hand crack out the roof to a welcome thank-the-diety-of-your-choice jug. Recover a little, move up on good sidepulls, and then carefully balance your way up to the slab. Breathe a sigh of relief and continue easily up and left to a belay just right of the second pitch of Long John Wall. The gear is good on this pitch, but after the initial handcrack is small (Aliens and small stoppers).

Pitch 2: (7): climb the seam about a body length to the right of the second pitch of Long John Wall. When you get to the roof, traverse easily to the right for about twenty feet or so and make a belay near the tree below the second pitch of Break on Through (be careful of loose rocks in that area).

Pitch 3: (10c): traverse right from the belay, climb carefully through the shattered band, and go up the crack a few feet to the right of the last pitch of Chianti to a good ledge, and make a belay there.

Once on top, one could traverse climber's right to the chain anchors atop Atom Smasher. I find it so awkward to set up that anchor for a rappel that my preference is to continue up and over, scramble down to a good ledge with a tree, traverse skier's right, and rappel from the cable anchor atop the second pitch of Washington Irving. I like to go to The Unsaid anchor from there.

(The route name and first ascent information were obtained from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook to the canyon.)

Protection 

I used cams from a purple TCU up to a #3 Camalot and a selection of stoppers (including some small stuff). Extra finger-size cams wouldn't go unused.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Second and third pitches of Rock For Climbing Rout...
BETA PHOTO: Second and third pitches of Rock For Climbing Rout...

Comments on Rock For Climbing Routes To Add Comment
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By Andy Donson
Mar 18, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Sorry about this, but I also did the FA of this back in '98, only to discover some time later that it was the top pitch of "Rock For Climbing Routes To" an Alec Sharp route from ages ago.It felt harder than 10b to me.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 19, 2004

My apologies, ac.

We did our homework (including pouring over the CB.com database to see if an FA had already been claimed), but unfortunately we didn't get an "A". Somehow we had a collective team brain fart and completely missed the last part of Rossiter's description of "Rock for Climbing Routes", even though that's exactly what we were looking for.

Lesson learned, although it's a damn shame there can't be a route around here named "Fava Beans", especially since this Chianti really is quite nice.
By Chris Archer
Oct 25, 2004

Rock for Climbing Routes To is an independent 3 pitch (as originally done) line that begins on the arete left of the first pitch of Break on Through and ends as described here. Perhaps Andy could provide additional FA details.

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