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Rock de Jour 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bradley White, Bill Hardigan, 1985
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,270
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Scanned photo of myself at the merger of 'Cherry P...

Description 

2nd pitch side walk in space right of the start to the third pitch of iron man. I found the way to bring Bill up this steep wall. Nobody knows or probable would try to lead this route the way it was originally done. Right of space shuttle climb through a plant filled groove to access the wall (original start to iron man 5-8r) diagonal right across what is part of Underdog now use triangle hold to access cat walk to belay. climb 5-7x right and up to large belay ledge. Move left to belay. Go right and up on to side walk in space (5-8r) traverse it to become under stacked blocks (gone) and go up a break in the next steep section to belay. Move right on walkway and up on dubious looking but secure face holds to top of the cliff. Walk off down the death slab (now the Orange Crush Ladder access trail). Done in 1986.

Location 

main cliff

Protection 

traditional.


Photos of Rock de Jour Slideshow Add Photo
Jay Lena finishing up the last pitch. Nice and sterile now with glue ins.
Jay Lena finishing up the last pitch. Nice and ste...

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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 25, 2008

i have lots of respect for the history that you and others can bring to this site and i hope that you don't stop contributing... i do think a description of the current "Rock De Jour" would be very helpful with all of its retrobolting included... i climbed the route as it is in wards guidebook as a wandering trad route which was still rather adventurous... now it is fully bolted i think and takes a bit of a different line... not as exciting but still quite fun...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 25, 2008

The rock its self has changed quite a bit since Bradley did his FA. Huge blocks have come off from the "sidewalk in space", including one the size of a Cadillac that had pins and slings behind it, that slid off with barely a nudge with a bar.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 28, 2008

Bradley,

One of the reasons I believe in this site is that it allows the history to be corrected and made more accurate. I'm sorry that there have been misinterpretations of the history of your climbs. We are all fortunate that you are on the site and willing to correct any errors. Thanks for your posts.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 6, 2009

Bradley, I am very curious where this route you call "the original route orange crush" went. And, what was the history as it relates to the route now called "Orange Crush" at the cliff of the same name?
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"When history is written by one who has experienced it is truthful. Otherwise history becomes an interpretation of that truthfulness. I've done climbs when I wasn't even in N.H. with people I've never heard of. Isn't that remarkable. That's why I solely started postings at Mountain Project. But Every time I do change who, what, where and when to me it is in likeness to injuring one of my old friend's reputation. Anyway because of you both Lee and Mark I won't stop correcting the fictitious accounts of firsts done climbs we accomplished way back then. During our years together Bill overcame extreme fear of heights. He started climbing when he was 42 and he died at 57. I just had to right the wrongs about him. I'm still at it doing new climbs at the snake mostly far from the maddening crowd."

Comment by bradley white on August 27th, 2008 6:30 am