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Rock Candy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
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Scanned photo. First pitch FFA and I was on the le...

Description 

I rated this climb a bomb because it was dangerous and little pro. A climber has done it and changed the rating and so his choice to the rating of it. The more the merrier to the start up the Quartet Dike 15ft and exit left to it's near vertical edge. Climb the outside edge with inadequate nailed piton protection. Do committing (5-8) moves. Be intrepid to climb past an expansion block and stand on it to move right. After 50ft up get first reliable pro in. It's a shame that the beginning is problematic because the rest of the climb is solid fun climbing up a series of groove to corner to outside face moves (5-6) with great pro. Worst thing about the climb is that expanding to body weight lay back block. I should pull it off the cliff someday. It wouldn't change the inadequate 50ft of pro though. Be careful of rope drag. This climb would be better leading it with two ropes and two bolts placed where the pro is no good. Belay on Quartet platform terraced ledge. A little rock candy is good to have and too much of it will rot the teeth. I lost my sweet tooth for Rock Candy after my first ascent and left just cavities in the rock rotting there where the dubious pitons once filled those cavities.


Location 

Left edge of Quartet Dike


Protection 

Bring angles and bugaboos and medium cams or hexes and trad. stoppers. Wear a necklace with St, Michael's medallion.



Photos of Rock Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Scanned photo. Middle of first pitch. Craig Young photographer
Scanned photo. Middle of first pitch. Craig Young ...
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