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 ADVANCED
Upper Blacktail Butte
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blitzkrieg S 
Crackin' the Cherry S 
Goldstein S 
Graceland S 
Muy Macho S 
Power Trip S 
Red Chili S 
Rock Candy Nugget S 
Tec DC-9 S 
Wild at Heart S 
Winston S 

Rock Candy Nugget 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Beyer
Page Views: 746
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on May 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

A nice nugget of good stone on an otherwise pretty chossy chunk of rock. A couple of thin moves getting to the first bolt, then fun limestone face climbing afterwards. A good warmup. Not quite as good as Red Chili, but almost. Watch a "x"ed loose block at the top.
The photo in Wes Gooch's guidebook shows the line going slightly left of where it actually does. Start just right of a black waterstreakish section of rock.

Location 

Walk left from Power Trip on a trail. In about 50-75 yds, you'll come to another cliff. This is the second bolted route from the right.

Protection 

5 bolts, two-bolt anchor w/ chains.


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By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
May 19, 2008

IMO, this route is overrated. I would give it 9+/10a, but since I'm adding it, I'll use the guidebook rating of 10b.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 24, 2008

I was a little confused as to the location of this route as well but it sounds like Nick is describing what we climbed. I thought perhaps we were doing a different climb than Rock Candy Nugget and thought it was 5.9ish but my wife, who is much shorter, thought it was 10-ish, which might be part of the cause for the discrepancy in the grade. In the Gooch guide, it is listed as having 6 bolts, adding to my confusion.

Anyone know what route is to the right? And, what is the next route to the left?
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
Aug 26, 2014

Fantastic warm up. Big holds throughout. 10a if you've climbed it before, but some big holds that are hidden and a mandatory traverse to the second bolt can make it a tricky onsight for the 5.10 leader. Best 5.10 (although limited competition) at BTB.