|Upper Blacktail Butte
A nice nugget of good stone on an otherwise pretty chossy chunk of rock. A couple of thin moves getting to the first bolt, then fun limestone face climbing afterwards. A good warmup. Not quite as good as Red Chili, but almost. Watch a "x"ed loose block at the top.
The photo in Wes Gooch's guidebook shows the line going slightly left of where it actually does. Start just right of a black waterstreakish section of rock.
Walk left from Power Trip on a trail. In about 50-75 yds, you'll come to another cliff. This is the second bolted route from the right.
5 bolts, two-bolt anchor w/ chains.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
May 19, 2008
IMO, this route is overrated. I would give it 9+/10a, but since I'm adding it, I'll use the guidebook rating of 10b.
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 24, 2008
I was a little confused as to the location of this route as well but it sounds like Nick is describing what we climbed. I thought perhaps we were doing a different climb than Rock Candy Nugget and thought it was 5.9ish but my wife, who is much shorter, thought it was 10-ish, which might be part of the cause for the discrepancy in the grade. In the Gooch guide, it is listed as having 6 bolts, adding to my confusion.
Anyone know what route is to the right? And, what is the next route to the left?