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Rock Atrocity 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Colin Lantz
Page Views: 1,681
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Oct 28, 2008

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Working on the route June, 1990.

Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This history of this route is infamously documented in the 2002 book Climb!: The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado. According to Colin Lantz, most of the information found in the book regarding this route is incorrect. Quoting Colin, A number of different people were working on the route at the same time. Someone did bolt an artificial climbing wall hold to the wall. I removed the hold from the wall and I tried my best to patch the bolt hole so you could not see any evidence that it had been there. The quality of the rock on the lower wall is very bad and some of the holds are very loose. Another party used what appeared to be clear epoxy glue and coated the outside of some of the loose flakes on the lower wall with it. The result was horrible and very noticeable when the sun shined on the wall. It was impossible to remove the glue because the rock was so porous that the glue had soaked into the rock. I got some special resin from my roommate Chas Fisher who owned Bolder Holds that had rock texture and pigment in it and tried my best to repair and hide the damage that had been done. By this time I knew the route would always have a stigma attached to it, but I figured the route deserved to be climbed as the bolts were already there and the damage already done. The top half of the route is actually quite beautiful and the sequence of the moves and the proud position were worthy in my opinion. I named the route Rock Atrocity to call attention to the ethical transgressions that had taken place on the route.

This route climbs out the giant overhang above The Perfect Kiss. Climb through a series of fun and engaging 5.12 moves on creaking crimps. Take a breath and fire into a hard, and very reachy boulder problem to a difficult clip and some endurance 12+ climbing to the chains. The position of this climb is truly amazing and the movement is very reachy, exciting and dynamic.

Location 

This is a second pitch, done in one long rope length from the ground (use long slings on the anchors of 'The Perfect Kiss' and the first few bolts of Rock Atrocity).

Protection 

9 quickdraws. The anchors to Rock Atrocity are above the lip and clipping them will destroy your rope. I would suggest clipping the last two bolts (biners are hanging up there), climbing to the lip, and calling it good.


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By George Squibb
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Seemed more like .13c when I did it a long time ago...maybe it's broken...or JStar is short...and afraid of Rifle...;-)
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Nov 19, 2008

I'm only afraid 'cause giants like yourself hang there! Us little people got to watch out! And yeah it's 13c.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 10, 2009

J-star is this route really worth getting on?
I climbed the first pitch Saturday to get a better look.
Not only was the first pitch a chossy, loose, flake fest,
But the 13 pitch looked even worse!

That brown rock at the bottom looked like frozen poo.
Should I waste my time or go try something better?
Was the rock quality worth the position and movement?
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Feb 17, 2009

Mr Burns - the piss rock quality IS in fact worth the position and movement. The crux and the difficult section above it (to the chains) is a much higher quality rock, plus you are WAY up there at that point = wicked position. Let's just say if the rock quality was great it would be 4 stars in my book. Definitely give it a try! What's to lose (other than some more key holds)?
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Feb 2, 2010

BTW - other ethical transgressions aside (as documented in the above route description) the route was never chipped.
By Tank Evans
Mar 7, 2010

Striking wall, but the rock quality was worse than I had imagined. If you do not tread lightly and use the approved footholds, you (and your belayer) will be bumming.
I do not agree with the reachy aspect. The method I used employed an extremely high foot that would suck if you were taller than 5'10".

Good work dressing it up, Colin, it doesn't look too bad.
Only tried once and did not send, but I would agree with the 13c rating from my first cut.
By Chris Weidner
Dec 29, 2010

Rock Atrocity is one of the best and hardest routes on the Front Range, despite the poor rock quality. Over many attempts in 2010, I broke four small but positive footholds. There are now smaller (and fewer) footers at the crux and sandy smears higher up where there used to be positive edges. The route still goes just fine, but it's hard 13d.

In the interest of route preservation, I re-reinforced several crucial holds (December 2010) that were flexing and crumbling. If this route receives more attention (which it deserves), it will undoubtedly require even more maintenance in the future.
This baby's worth it.
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