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The Dedication Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Castaways T 
Dedication T 
Diss-N-Dazz T 
It's Five What? T 
Move it or Lose it S 
Robinson Crusoe T 
Six Bolts and a Plug S 
Soul Survivor T 

Robinson Crusoe 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Michael Hartrich, Albert Dow, and Ed Webster: 9/12 & 9/13, 1981
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 2,709
Submitted By: Brian P on Sep 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Travis Piper at sunrise on pitch 2 of Robinson Cru...

Description 

1 - Up blocky terrain to open corner to tree ledge (loose gravel and rock) - 5.9+

2- Easier climbing leads to overlap/roof, pull over on left (bolt), up open groove (crux, bolts & small cams), bolt belay near dying tree - 5.10b

3 - Up and right over Soul Survivor dike, up headwall (lighter rock), right facing corner, to another corner on left, top slab to bolt belay - 5.9

Alternative to pitch 3 would be Diss-N-Dazz (5.10c).

Location 

See Ed Webster guide (Rock Climbs in the White Mtns of NH) for full cliff description. Up trail past boulders near road, up to cliff, head left, starts in broken terrain under Castaways.

Can do 3 raps with one 60m, but the first rappel is close! Solidly knot the ends on the first rap, might need to scramble or pull over to bolt belay. Using two ropes is a safer option.

Protection 

Some pins and bolts plus standard rack for this area, possibly some extra small cams and a large cam (to help protect roof/overlap on pitch 2). Belays are tree (1) and bolts (2 & 3).


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 27, 2010

Nice climb. Not many good 5.10's around with this variety.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Sep 29, 2013

The new North Conway guidebook marks this as 5.10b R. Does anyone know the essence of the runout?
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Nov 23, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

The first pitch is classic and great to do by itself.

The crux second pitch has pro that is a bit rattly, I think I had a green/yellow alien in a thin flake. Not R per se, more like PG. It's not horrendous by any means, but definitely makes you pay attention.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jul 24, 2014

The second pitch is the slightly sketchy one. Up to the roof is easy, but the rock isn't perfect and the gear is sparse. Once in the groove above the roof (right about were Travis is in the cool fisheye pic) things are a little spicy, pro-wise. There is a flake out left that will accept some small stuff (RPs or equivelent, micro-cam) but it's really hard to see the placement without losing your balance (at least for me), and that's what protects the crux face/stemming moves. I've never fallen on the stuff, and don't really want to.
By John Halupowski
From: Intervale, N.H.
Apr 30, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

The first 2 pins on P.1 are old rusty knife blades that I put Screamers on. I would not like to test them.
By jhan
From: Lebanon, NH
Oct 14, 2015

A three star multipitch route should meet the following requirements:
1. very clean
2. good pro. Safe.
3. easy route finding
4. solid rock

RC doesnt pass any of these requirements. P2 is the demise, IT IS A RUNOUT X without the large #4-6 cam. I dont think the guide book should say this is OPTIONAL?! (esp if you are giving it 3 stars). The first 20 feet of P2 (once you find the route) is not hard, but there is only gear behind a lg loose block (cannon style) and then you climb 10 more feet to a huge disgusting, odiferous, draining, cave-like abscess, peregrine porto-john that you have to slime through while doing the balancy stem to clip the first bolt.
By Lisa Boldini
Dec 14, 2015

The second pin on P1 has been broken off. It wasn't for falling on anyways, so traverse right a bit to put a cam in the flake.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jun 30, 2016

I feel inclined to give an alternative opinion on why this route is an excellent multipitch outing, to offset some previous comments:
1. There is fun, engaging climbing of a consistent grade on all pitches.
2. The exposure and movement on pitch 2 in the stemming section is super fun and exciting (check out the cover photo!)
3. The gear is good in the hard parts, yet still leaves it a bit exciting (this is NoCo, not Rumney).
4. The belay ledges and anchors are comfy and safe and new.
5. The Dizz-n-Dazz finish is awesome!

The runout part of pitch 2 is on quite easy climbing as I recall.

Have fun on it!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 30, 2016

If folks really think this is R,,then many Conway climbs should be regraded X

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