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Robbins Boulder
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Robbins Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Royal Robbins
Page Views: 7,737
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
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4 year old Chris Lindner soloing Robbins Crack, 5....

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This perfect hand crack is the Woodson classic. The rock is a little slick but keep your feet in the crack and you will have no problem. The crux is the first half of the climb. After the first 15 feet the crack widens for perect hands.

Protection 

Use #1 and 2 camalot. Some people do this as a high ball boulder problem. Crack is the same size the entire climb. There is a bolt anchor and rap rings at top of rock.


Photos of Robbins Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Josh warming up on Robbin's Crack.
Josh warming up on Robbin's Crack.
Climbing robbins crack
Climbing robbins crack
An alpine start is mandatory for a climb this long
An alpine start is mandatory for a climb this long
Phil Bard ( <a href='http://philbard.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >philbard.com</a> ) belaying G. McCay on Robbins Crack 5.10a (early 80's) Photo: R. Barnes
Phil Bard ( philbard.com ) belaying G. McCa...
Poop (bat, I assume?) literally spilling out from the bottom of Robbins. Mmmm...
Poop (bat, I assume?) literally spilling out from ...
Jon soloing yet another lap!!!
Jon soloing yet another lap!!!
The classic robbin's crack.
The classic robbin's crack.
The sweetest jams...
The sweetest jams...
Robbins Crack
Robbins Crack
Robbins Crack
Robbins Crack

Comments on Robbins Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jace Mullen
From: Oceanside, Ca
Jul 15, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Family of bats was hanging out making a racket in the crack about 3/4 of the way up. Quickly climbed past them but figured I should give people a heads up.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

As the story goes, in the 1960s Royal Robbins was shown this boulder, and it's striking 20ft crack. The cats that showed him the route boasted that they had already sent it, but didn't say that they did it via aid. It was that very day, that the Robbins Crack saw its first free ascent as bewildered eyes witnessed Royal's effort and so named the route.
By Bobby Fredin
Jun 23, 2006

If you want to add a little more to the climb start as a sit start. This makes for a nice additional move or two.
By 426
Mar 21, 2007

Crux is downclimbing, provided you did it without ropes...
By Brent Coe
From: La Mesa, CA
Jun 2, 2009

For me it likes .75 camalots, and definitely not #2.
By Josh Cameron
Aug 29, 2011

I thought I knew how to hand jam until I tried to climb this. It'll teach ya how to jam.

I've always used two #1 C4's on this climb. You could use a smaller cam or a nut in the off-fingers at the top if you wanted to. I'd like to see how you could get a #2 to fit into this crack.

I ran into Eric Beck at the Happy's a few years back and we got to talking about Mount Woodson. He told me that Robbins never climbed this route. The guys who did the first ascent just spread the rumor to get people to climb their route. Seeing how great the route is, the rumor seemed unnecessary.
By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This crack accepts all forms of credit... Just insert and slide through!!!!
By ccross
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 13, 2012

For such a classic climb, I'm surprised how inconsistent the information is. Or maybe people just repeat what they heard and sometimes get it wrong.
35ft and 20 ft were listed here, and the guidebook says 24ft.
The Mountain Project description says the crack is the same size the entire climb, yet also says the crack widens for perfect hands after 15ft up.
Then there are comments on gear from .75 to 2.
Guess it's time for me to find out for myself next outing.
By Adam Burch
From: San Dieger
Dec 4, 2013

Josh is right, couple BD #1 C4s are perfect. I had DMM dragon cams, which are just a hair smaller (I think). I could have walked them up and down the majority of it. You could probably find an area for a .75 here and there, but #1 places with almost zero thought.
By Rich Welker
From: Cardiff, Ca
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It takes BD 0.75 and 2 #1. I wish it was longer!