Robbins Crack 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Royal Robbins |
| Submitted By: | david baker on Jan 31, 2006 |
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4 year old Chris Lindner soloing Robbins Crack, 5....
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This perfect hand crack is the Woodson classic. The rock is a little slick but keep your feet in the crack and you will have no problem. The crux is the first half of the climb. After the first 15 feet the crack widens for perect hands.
Protection Use #1 and 2 camalot. Some people do this as a high ball boulder problem. Crack is the same size the entire climb. There is a bolt anchor and rap rings at top of rock.
Climbing robbins crack
| Phil Bard ( philbard.com ) belaying G. McCa...
| Josh warming up on Robbin's Crack.
| The classic robbin's crack.
| Robbins Crack
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| Comments on Robbins Crack |
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By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Feb 9, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| As the story goes, in the 1960s Royal Robbins was shown this boulder, and it's striking 20ft crack. The cats that showed him the route boasted that they had already sent it, but didn't say that they did it via aid. It was that very day, that the Robbins Crack saw its first free ascent as bewildered eyes witnessed Royal's effort and so named the route. |
By Bobby Fredin Jun 23, 2006
| If you want to add a little more to the climb start as a sit start. This makes for a nice additional move or two. |
By 426 Mar 21, 2007
| Crux is downclimbing, provided you did it without ropes... |
By Brent Coe From: La Mesa, CA Jun 2, 2009
| For me it likes .75 camalots, and definitely not #2. |
By Josh Cameron Aug 29, 2011
| I thought I knew how to hand jam until I tried to climb this. It'll teach ya how to jam. I've always used two #1 C4's on this climb. You could use a smaller cam or a nut in the off-fingers at the top if you wanted to. I'd like to see how you could get a #2 to fit into this crack. I ran into Eric Beck at the Happy's a few years back and we got to talking about Mount Woodson. He told me that Robbins never climbed this route. The guys who did the first ascent just spread the rumor to get people to climb their route. Seeing how great the route is, the rumor seemed unnecessary. |
By Sdm1568 From: Ca Sep 26, 2012
| I'm a terrible crack climber and this is one of my favorite climbs - I don't know if I'd ever consider soloing it though. The 4yr old kid in the picture makes me look like a 2 yr old haha. |
By sdrockstar81 From: el cajon, CA Oct 28, 2012
| This crack accepts all forms of credit... Just insert and slide through!!!! |
By ccross From: San Diego, CA Dec 13, 2012
| For such a classic climb, I'm surprised how inconsistent the information is. Or maybe people just repeat what they heard and sometimes get it wrong. 35ft and 20 ft were listed here, and the guidebook says 24ft. The Mountain Project description says the crack is the same size the entire climb, yet also says the crack widens for perfect hands after 15ft up. Then there are comments on gear from .75 to 2. Guess it's time for me to find out for myself next outing. |
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