Roaring Silence is a fun route up the left side of New Wave Wall. It starts with the first few bolts of Weevil and breaks right up the steepest part of the wall. The first crux consists of weird moves through black rock. The second crux comes up high on the steep arete. Many skip the last bolt as the climbing is pretty intense at this point.
The cruxes on Roaring Silence are separated by a nice, hands-off rest, keeping the grade on the lower end of 5.13. There has been some debate as to the true letter grade, but then again, sport climbers have to talk about something.
1st, 2nd, 5th and 6th old fixed draws replaced by black-tubed Climb Tech permadraws on May 12, 2011. 5th clip an inch longer so should be slightly easier, and the runout to the chains maybe slightly less freaky without the nagging wondering about actual tensile strength of very old sun-bleached draws with grooved biners
Was interesting to Mike and Frank climb out of the upper corner to the left, then come back in near the top of it. Is that how most do that section?
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jun 19, 2011
I think I did it that way. It has been a while, but I remember going further left than most, then coming back. I got it second time on top rope that way, but one of the clips would have been out of reach for me without a really long sling, so I never lead it. It's funny, I got back on it more recently and got completely spanked. I couldn't even get through the bottom crux. It made me feel wicked old and decrepit, like an old dog trying to follow the pack with it's legs giving out and looking back at the pack of hyenas following. You need to be in bouldering shape for this one.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jun 30, 2011
I went way left to rest, and I think most people do as well. Despite the looks from the ground, this route isn't that sustained--it's more like two boulder problems. Even with the rest, it's a great route.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 18, 2011 rating: 5.13b8a29IX+E7 6c
i really enjoy the style of this climb! its steep but very much technical... for me it was way more about figuring out my beta than fighting the pump or just being strong (which is my weak spot, haha)... so try it... if you like that sort of thing...
oh and to add to the above discussion... i exit the corner and stay to the left until moving back right in to the cruxy business... i do it differently than either one on the video...