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Roanoke River Gorge (RoRG), Roanoke, VA

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Redneck Hole 
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Roanoke River Gorge (RoRG), Roanoke, VA Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,110'
Location: 37.2512, -79.8639 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,134
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Aaron James Parlier, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JonathanGerst on Nov 9, 2009
Forecast:
Today

88° | 70°
Sunday

90° | 70°
Monday

90° | 66°
Tuesday

88° | 68°
Wednesday

87° | 67°
Thursday

84° | 68°
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BETA PHOTO: Shelter in Redneck Hole

Dangers beware! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sport, Mixed, Trad and TR on 50 to 90 ft tall, very old (i.e. Grenville Orogeny), low grade metamorphic granulite. Rock quality: very weathered, sharp, and difficult to read. Loose exterior reveals quality technical face, dihedral, roofs, slabs, and handcracks. Routes range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12. As of Fall 2009, 10 established routes are present. However, this area has the potential for much more route development, as the cliff continues downstream for about a mile. Considered a choss heap by some, the RoRG is a veritable mecca for rock starved climbers in the area. Trash and dirty routes are a problem...so please lend a hand with the cleanup effort.

Getting There 

Take Blue Ridge Parkway to Milepost 115, and park just across the street from the Explorer Park entrance at the parking lot that is located on south side of bridge over the Roanoke River. Take the trail from the backside of the parking lot, which will lead you back under the bridge (i.e. downstream). The lower trail is accessed by walking off the backside of the Roanoke River overlook/observation point. The upper trail is accessed by veering right on all trail forks, until the trail obviously parallels the top of the cliff, at which point veer left, until you reach the descent gully just under the cliff face.

Climbing Season

For the Roanoke/New River/Blacksburg area.

Weather station 7.1 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Roanoke River Gorge (RoRG), Roanoke, VA
Rock Climbing Photo: GWAR BAR!

GWAR (i.e. My homies be guaranteed) 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  VA : Roanoke/New River/Blacksbur... : ... : Redneck Hole
Start low (30 feet below Redneck Hole) and climb arete. Cruxy near clip #6. This is the first route to gain the entire cliff hieght. Other stations accessible from above....[more]   Browse More Classics in VA

Photos of Roanoke River Gorge (RoRG), Roanoke, VA Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Roof crux on Jederman (Trad, 5.8+)
BETA PHOTO: Roof crux on Jederman (Trad, 5.8+)
Rock Climbing Photo: Project Ouch in Redneck Hole
BETA PHOTO: Project Ouch in Redneck Hole
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron on Rubber Factory (Mixed, 5.9+)
BETA PHOTO: Aaron on Rubber Factory (Mixed, 5.9+)
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex on Jederman start (Trad, 5.8+)
BETA PHOTO: Alex on Jederman start (Trad, 5.8+)
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex on 5.12 Trad Proj.
Alex on 5.12 Trad Proj.
Rock Climbing Photo: Prince Phil (5.9-, sport)
BETA PHOTO: Prince Phil (5.9-, sport)
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard on Dave's 5.12 Trad Proj.
BETA PHOTO: Richard on Dave's 5.12 Trad Proj.
Rock Climbing Photo: To reach the lower trail:  Climb over the edge of ...
BETA PHOTO: To reach the lower trail: Climb over the edge of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on Goudaman (5.10C, mixed)
Paul on Goudaman (5.10C, mixed)
Rock Climbing Photo: GWAR crux
BETA PHOTO: GWAR crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapids below cliff
BETA PHOTO: Rapids below cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent gully from upper trail
BETA PHOTO: Descent gully from upper trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on Rubber Factory (5.9+, mixed)
Paul on Rubber Factory (5.9+, mixed)
Rock Climbing Photo: Roof on Project Ouch
BETA PHOTO: Roof on Project Ouch
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard on Niederman (5.10C, sport)
BETA PHOTO: Richard on Niederman (5.10C, sport)
Rock Climbing Photo: I hope this photo helps clarify the directions for...
BETA PHOTO: I hope this photo helps clarify the directions for...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave exposed on GWAR arete (5.11-, 13 clip sport)
BETA PHOTO: Dave exposed on GWAR arete (5.11-, 13 clip sport)
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't follow the Loop Trail up the stairs; instead...
BETA PHOTO: Don't follow the Loop Trail up the stairs; instead...

Comments on Roanoke River Gorge (RoRG), Roanoke, VA Add Comment
Show which comments
By JonathanGerst
From: Morocco, Africa
Nov 9, 2009
The RoRG is in an awful environmental state and I am interested in facilitating a crag cleanup day. Please lend a hand (COMMENT HERE) with helping to ameliorate this incredible natural resource so that we (Climbers, fisherman, kayakers, hikers,environmental stewards, etc.) may cleanup and preserve the RoRG for future generations.
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Nov 9, 2009
Looks good JG!
By Chris Helak
From: Roanoke, VA
Nov 20, 2009
I'd be interested in helping out if I can.
By Cunning Linguist
Jun 29, 2011
What's the status on the cleanup/new routeing efforts? How bad is the rock here on a scale of one to ten? Is it kind of an Iron Gate's too far to drive today kinda place?
By John whittaker
Jan 13, 2012
is this still an accessable place to go for the afternoon?
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Apr 20, 2012
Killis: no new routes in the last year i am aware of. The guy who was bolting moved out of town a long while back. the rock isnt too bad. Obviously itll shed a bit since the routes have only been climbed once or twice, so at the moment its hard to say. Existing stuff is solid.

John: we went out there today at 4pm and got a full session in before dark. But with summer come the bugs, ivy and humidity....
By Waveclimb
From: LA, CA
Aug 26, 2012
Hey I just moved to the area and this is about 30 mins from where I live. Would anyone mind showing me around out there?
By Eric Ball
Dec 1, 2012
I'd just like to clarify the directions to the access trails:

To reach the upper access trail:
- Go down the trail from the parking lot and hang a right until you pass under the bridge.
- Take a RIGHT at the fork, following signs for the "Loop Trail"
- Follow the loop trail over a small bridge and stay left until you pass another bridge.
- A few yards from the second bridge there will be a small staircase and trail will start to loop back around: do not follow it.
- Instead, walk around the large tree and keep going straight along the ridge.
- The trail is pretty unmaintained and can get a little sketchy after this point, but you're still on the right track.
- After a few minutes you should see the first set of cliffs directly on your left, above a set of rapids in the river.

To reach the lower access trail:
- Go down the trail from the parking lot and hang a right until you pass under the bridge.
- Take a LEFT at the fork, following signs for the "Pedestrian Overlook."
- Walk down to the end of this trail; you'll see a big stone towerish-looking platform.
- Climb over the left hand side (if you're facing the river) of the platform and around the front.
- Climb down the small gulley (someone has tied a piece of cordellete around a tree to help with the descent) and you'll reach the river bank.
- Head downstream either along the rocks or just inside the trees along the bank and you'll see the first set of cliffs directly to your right, above the first set of major rapids.

Here are a couple pictures I took today:

Go left to reach the Lower Trail, go right to reach the Upper Trail.



Go over the side of the overlook and around the front to reach the Lower Trail.



Don't follow the Loop Trail up the stairs; instead stay straight and walk to the right of the large tree to find the Upper Access Trail.

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