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Roadside Distraction
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Roadside Distraction 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 112'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tyler Bowser(?)
Page Views: 1,299
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on May 10, 2009

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Roadside Distraction

Description 

The longest, cleanest route at the area. Start up in the small corner up the smooth, water polished face to the high first bolt. I presume one could go straight up the face avoiding the corner but it would be much more difficult and unprotected. A few more thin moves take you up past a couple more bolts and then into positive, fun climbing up to the roof. Pull the roof using big holds and climb past a couple more bolts to an anchor. Lower from here if your rope is 60m or less and you want to TR. Otherwise count your draws and make sure you have at least 6 more and keep going for more fun climbing with a short, thin crux just before the higher set of anchors.

Location 

The right most route of the three on the main wall. If you have a 70m rope you can lower with just enough rope to spare from the upper anchors. Otherwise, make two raps down to the ground.

Protection 

14 or 15 bolts with the first set of anchors at about 75 feet. The higher anchors are at about 112 feet.


Photos of Roadside Distraction Slideshow Add Photo
Well above the first set of anchors and heading in...
Well above the first set of anchors and heading in...
Amy Haessly high up at Roadside Distraction.
Amy Haessly high up at Roadside Distraction.

Comments on Roadside Distraction Add Comment
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By Keith B. Ives
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I did this on Friday. It was the longest & most sustained 5.10 I have ever been on. In fact, the moves above the first anchor are some of the hardest 5.10 moves I have ever pulled. Not sure if it was the length, the moves, or the exposure, but It felt like more then 5.10a

That said. AMAZING CLIMB