Roadside Attraction 5.12a/b R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Cam Burns, with his dad belaying, 1989 |
| Season: | Spring-Fall |
| Submitted By: | Jason Halladay on Sep 17, 2006 |
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Cam Burns belayed by his father and photographed b...
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Description An old, not often (never?) climbed route facing the highway on Roadside Attraction. I've never climbed it but the one bolt this route once had is missing its hanger and the rock is reported to be loose above the roof.
Location Facing highway on Roadside Attraction Rock. Listed as route #10 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Cattle Call Wall area.
Protection Hangerless bolt down low, 2.5 friend and nuts to top. No anchor.
Check out those wheels! Photo taken by Cam Burns'...
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| Comments on Roadside Attraction |
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By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Jul 8, 2008
| This was actually climbed by me, ages ago (1989), and, I got my dad to belay me because he was available and I really wanted to lead it after TRing it (bringing up a good argument as to why it shouldn't exist the way it does). As I remember, I climbed a few bouldery moves off left of the first ledge system, and the sole bolt on the route (the bolt was placed on lead), then basically ran it out to the top with no gear. The rating is arguably bogus. The X rating referred to the runout at the top, which might've been 5.9-5.10 with groundfall potential. The .12a or whatever refers to the bouldery section down low. And is probably way more than it really shoulda been as I only worked on it a few hours and I'm no 5.12 climber, although I was back then. God, this is way too much info for a bombed route. And, I'd say, I'm actually not a climber. I've had too many negative vibes from climbers over the years, so call me an ambitious hiker. Cam |
By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 9, 2008
| That's good stuff, Cammo. I haven't actually completed the route--only played around at the bottom trying to figure out the moves and failing. I should set it up TR sometime and give it a real go and a better real opinion. When I added it here I was hoping someone would give a vote or better details on this route but it appears it doesn't get much traffic. p.s. I do want to see the photographic evidence of you being belayed by your dad on this! |
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Jul 17, 2008
| Jason, I see you scanned my slides. Gawdddddd! Those lycra tights are bloody awful. I can smell them from here. Thanks for fixing the rating, too. Well, there's the pics you wanted. Probably the only ascent ever, as you suggested. Did you try it? Best, Cam |
By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 17, 2008
| Hey Cam, indeed thanks so much for the slides from this and On Beyond Zebra! They are awesome! Those tights are damn cool and the wheels are super impressive too. I have yet to try this route but I have half a mind to go setup a TR to give it a go! |
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