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Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)
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Roadside Attraction 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: G. Smith, R. Snider
Page Views: 14,265
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 17, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: pic of route

Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A beautiful dihedral crack. Scramble to a ledge with bolted anchor for optional belay. Then jam, stem, and lieback past to the top to another bolted anchor/belay.

Protection 

This crack protects extremely well. Doubles in hand sizes (maybe even 3 #2 Camalots) and a large cam (#6 C4) is helpful if topping out. There is a bolted belay anchor about halfway up if you want to make it 2 pitches. There's another bolted anchor at the top (where folks used to belay and rappel off slings around a tree.)
Rap the route with a single 60m rope but tie knots in the ends of the rope.

Location 

The route is the obvious huge dihedral where the approach trail meets the wall. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall.


Photos of Roadside Attraction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Roadside Attraction
Roadside Attraction
Rock Climbing Photo: Nic sailing up Roadside to retrieve another party'...
Nic sailing up Roadside to retrieve another party'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beyond the first section.
Beyond the first section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Roadside Attraction, you can see a climber getting...
Roadside Attraction, you can see a climber getting...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roadside Attraction
Roadside Attraction
Rock Climbing Photo: Roadside Attraction 5.7 at Roadside Crag
Roadside Attraction 5.7 at Roadside Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Welter nearing the top of the first pitch
Andy Welter nearing the top of the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing Roadside at night...
climbing Roadside at night...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gary moves out of the #2 Camalot zone on Roadside ...
Gary moves out of the #2 Camalot zone on Roadside ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Casey cruising roadside at about midnight...
Casey cruising roadside at about midnight...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roadside Attraction
Roadside Attraction
Rock Climbing Photo: An unknown climber follows Roadside Attraction (5....
An unknown climber follows Roadside Attraction (5....
Rock Climbing Photo: Oct 2007.. Top half of Roadside Attraction
Oct 2007.. Top half of Roadside Attraction
Rock Climbing Photo: Bradley Killough criuses up the first section.
Bradley Killough criuses up the first section.

Comments on Roadside Attraction Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 28, 2016
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Sep 27, 2006

Don't belay from the tree at the first ledge. Not a good anchor and it won't last if people keep using it. Better to build an anchor in the crack at the ledge if you must split the climb into two pitches. There are bolt anchors at 60m on the higher ledge.
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Dec 14, 2006

A couple of #2 Camalots protect the crack on the lower part perfectly. Climbing beyond the bolted rap/belay station isn't all that interesting. Fun jamming and liebacking to an exciting finish.
By Keith
From: Chicago, IL
Jun 11, 2007

The bolted anchors are at 30m, not 60. You can rap with one 60m rope.
By RickTClark
From: Milwaukee, WI
Oct 17, 2008

Great climb, easy access. Last weekend we ran a group of 6 up and down this with ease(I added an extra 2" to the sling salad on the little tree). Love the stemming!!!
PS- something very thin and interesting (maybe 5.12b or more)immediately to the left. Starts on thin horizontals and wanders left to a notch.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent climb, well worth making a second trip to Roadside to find it unoccupied. The hand jams are phenomenal!
By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Oct 28, 2008

The belay/anchor tree at the top of the "second pitch" looks dead to me. Beware.
By vanishing spy
Nov 11, 2009

Not worth the hassle of topping this off, you'll need to break up the rappel and go off a tree. Stop at the bolted rap station.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nov 11, 2009

PLEASE DO NOT rap/belay off the little tree!!! Man up for this big O 5.7 and do it in one pitch! You can TR/Rap with a 60m rope so there is no need to break it up. I have cut enough slings off that thing over the past 10 years, and slowly watched it die. Really there is no need! If you need to break it up, go climb elsewhere
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 11, 2010

bring doubles in hand sizes (maybe even 3 #2 Camalots) and a large cam (#6 C4) is helpful when topping out, but certainly not necessary, even if you're timid
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 17, 2010

I did this before learning how to handjam and I found it a little insecure down low. I'm going to go back sometime and do it in one go and jam like crazy. For those thinking about doing it, practice your jams on it! From what I remember, you couldn't ask for much better of an opportunity. I've been practicing my jams on New Yosemite, which is two grades harder. Don't be retarded like me. Also, don't place cams super deep on this route if you want them back. ;)
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: midcoast, maine
Mar 12, 2012

Best climb of this grade I have ever climbed.


Simply AWESOME.
By Miguel S
Aug 23, 2013

Is Roadside open again? I am heading to the Red at the end of October (first time in 4 years) and a trip to the red is not complete without a run up roadside.

Thanks!
By EthanC
Apr 28, 2015

Climbed this last weekend, did not see any anchor to indicate the first pitch, It's probably the first cot-sized ledge you come to with a pretty stout tree. I dunno if there used to be bolts and they were cut or I was misinformed. Definitely doable in one pitch with a 60m but I have a pretty light rack so I decided not to. Built a gear anchor in the crack at the ledge to save the tree and belayed from there. 60m gets you down no problem but make sure you have a middle marker.

Edit: Since this post, bolts have been added at the first belay ledge in addition to the bolts up top. You can now do this in two pitches with no gear anchors and rap off the second set of bolts with a 60m or do two raps off the anchors. No tree shenanigans required.
By Sam Golden
From: melbourne, FL
Oct 26, 2015

There are new bolts at the top of this now, you can rap from this with a single 60m.
By befozz
Feb 8, 2016

There are bolts at first ledge now as well as bolts at the top, a 60m rope will get you down in one rappel. I recommend splitting into two pitches or you might be wishing you had more #2 Camelots.
By Spencer Perry
Mar 28, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

If you are confident in hand jams, you can run out the crack sections. I carried doubles of BD C4 #1-3 and slung a tree. An amazing climb. Had to do it twice in the same weekend because it was just that much fun! As others have posted, there are now bolted anchors on both ledges.

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