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Roadside Crag (CLOSED)
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Roadside Attraction 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: G. Smith, R. Snider
Page Views: 9,228
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (99)
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Andy Welter nearing the top of the first pitch

Closed to Climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A beautiful dihedral crack. Scramble to a ledge, then jam, stem, and lieback past a belay station to the top and anchor off of a tree.

Protection 

This crack protects extremely well. There is a belay about halfway up if you want to make it 2 pitches. On top there are slings & rap rings around the belay tree. You can rap the route in two rappels or make it in one rap with a 70m rope.

Location 

The route is the obvious huge dihedral where the approach trail meets the wall. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall.


Photos of Roadside Attraction Slideshow Add Photo
Nic sailing up Roadside to retrieve another party's top draws.
Nic sailing up Roadside to retrieve another party'...
Roadside Attraction
Roadside Attraction
Roadside Attraction, you can see a climber getting ready to rap from the bolted anchor.
Roadside Attraction, you can see a climber getting...
Gary moves out of the #2 Camalot zone on Roadside Attraction.
Gary moves out of the #2 Camalot zone on Roadside ...
Roadside Attraction 5.7 at Roadside Crag
Roadside Attraction 5.7 at Roadside Crag
Oct 2007.. Top half of Roadside Attraction
Oct 2007.. Top half of Roadside Attraction
climbing Roadside at night...
climbing Roadside at night...
Beyond the first section.
Beyond the first section.
Casey cruising roadside at about midnight...
Casey cruising roadside at about midnight...
Roadside Attraction
Roadside Attraction
An unknown climber follows Roadside Attraction (5.7+) in Red River Gorge. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
An unknown climber follows Roadside Attraction (5....
Roadside Attraction
Roadside Attraction
Bradley Killough criuses up the first section.
Bradley Killough criuses up the first section.
pic of route
BETA PHOTO: pic of route

Comments on Roadside Attraction Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 23, 2013
By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Sep 27, 2006

Don't belay from the tree at the first ledge. Not a good anchor and it won't last if people keep using it. Better to build an anchor in the crack at the ledge if you must split the climb into two pitches. There are bolt anchors at 60m on the higher ledge.
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Dec 14, 2006

A couple of #2 Camalots protect the crack on the lower part perfectly. Climbing beyond the bolted rap/belay station isn't all that interesting. Fun jamming and liebacking to an exciting finish.
By Keith
From: Chicago, IL
Jun 11, 2007

The bolted anchors are at 30m, not 60. You can rap with one 60m rope.
By RickTClark
From: Milwaukee, WI
Oct 17, 2008

Great climb, easy access. Last weekend we ran a group of 6 up and down this with ease(I added an extra 2" to the sling salad on the little tree). Love the stemming!!!
PS- something very thin and interesting (maybe 5.12b or more)immediately to the left. Starts on thin horizontals and wanders left to a notch.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent climb, well worth making a second trip to Roadside to find it unoccupied. The hand jams are phenomenal!
By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Oct 28, 2008

The belay/anchor tree at the top of the "second pitch" looks dead to me. Beware.
By vanishing spy
Nov 11, 2009

Not worth the hassle of topping this off, you'll need to break up the rappel and go off a tree. Stop at the bolted rap station.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nov 11, 2009

PLEASE DO NOT rap/belay off the little tree!!! Man up for this big O 5.7 and do it in one pitch! You can TR/Rap with a 60m rope so there is no need to break it up. I have cut enough slings off that thing over the past 10 years, and slowly watched it die. Really there is no need! If you need to break it up, go climb elsewhere
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 11, 2010

bring doubles in hand sizes (maybe even 3 #2 Camalots) and a large cam (#6 C4) is helpful when topping out, but certainly not necessary, even if you're timid
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 17, 2010

I did this before learning how to handjam and I found it a little insecure down low. I'm going to go back sometime and do it in one go and jam like crazy. For those thinking about doing it, practice your jams on it! From what I remember, you couldn't ask for much better of an opportunity. I've been practicing my jams on New Yosemite, which is two grades harder. Don't be retarded like me. Also, don't place cams super deep on this route if you want them back. ;)
By steitz
From: midcoast, maine
Mar 12, 2012

Best climb of this grade I have ever climbed.


Simply AWESOME.
By Miguel S
Aug 23, 2013

Is Roadside open again? I am heading to the Red at the end of October (first time in 4 years) and a trip to the red is not complete without a run up roadside.

Thanks!