Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Twinkle Toes Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Elephants Foot T 
Fungus Foot T 
Monkey Foot T 
Roadside Acracktion T 
Twinkle Toes T 
Violent Love S 
Unsorted Routes:

Roadside Acracktion 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rik Derrick 1981
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Brian Prince on Dec 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Leading Roadside Acracktion. Photo courtesy Matt H...

Description 

A pretty sweet and steep crack that ends after 30' or so. The route then goes up and right on very crappy rock to sh*t anchor in more crappy rock.

The pure crack climbing on the lower half is actually really cool and unique for the highway but, unfortunately, the upper half is just so loose. It's easy but terrifying, even for the highway. I'd vote for an anchor after the crack ends even though the route would be pretty short. r and x rated the way it is imho... still worth doing though


Location 

To the left and around the corner of Twinkle Toes is this attractive left leaning crack. Like the name advertises, it's right off the road.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Comments on Roadside Acracktion Add Comment
Show which comments
By clint helander
From: anchorage, alaska
Jan 25, 2013

Climbed this route this summer. I second that it is gnarly up high, lots of chunks coming out as I touched them. Still, the lower bit is rad. The anchor is fine where it is, it keeps the weary away and preserves the "quality" of the route.

Is there still a PBR can half way up the route? We left it there in August, was still there as of mid December. hah!