Roadrunner 

All this info and no mention of Thirty Aught Six. The best crack in the canyon.

Is 30 aught 6 one of the two cracks on the right hand side of the crag? One has a huge roof on P. 2 and the one to its left has what looks like an overhanging hand crack for its second pitch. I did the first pitch of the crack on the left up to a three piton anchor with slings and it was decent and the second looked awesome but wet...beta???, I lost my guidebook....

The right hand crack is 30 aught 6, 11b and the upper pitch looks awesome. The first pitch looks like choss. The 1st pitch of Road Runner is quite good though and is more like 10-, not 11d as suggested in Rolofson's guide.

7/30/04:installed 3/8" x 3" bolt with chain (primed and painted) to existing two cold shut rap anchor. One of the two existing bolts can be spun in its hole by fingers (try it) and is sticking out 1/4" the other one is ok.

Excellent line. Definitely a one pitch line with a 70m rope. Extend the two cams you'll likely place at the roof section and don't extend a runner when you clip the bolt after the roof. This will from going into the crack and keep the rope from having too much drag. Might save a #4 Camalot for the last piece before getting to the anchor. A #3 works too, but covers up the better jam.

It looks like I got the name a little off. I guess the true spelling should be: .30-06 and pronounced "thirty aught six".

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.30-06_Springfield

I guess you could use the technical name or the pronunciation. Feel free to correct it to which ever you (or the FA) wants.

This line is definitely one of my favorites in the canyon.

Errr, tried doing this as a single pitch... and I don't recommend it. Basically, you can either screw your second with little protection on the roof traverse or give yourself rope drag from hell.

I don't know if there was a defined crux on this route, but the roof traverse has poor feet for a couple moves for shorter guys and once the roof is turned, the upper section gets pumpy (or was it because of my 40 lb rope drag?) I don't know why anybody bothered to mention the OW, cause, it ain't no OW.

There is a nut (#12 stopper?) right before turning the roof. It looks easily removable, but please don't (unless, of course, you put it there). This and the bolt help keeping the rope from getting stuck in the roof crack.

FA: Jeff Achey and Kent Lugbill, Jan 1981. Royal Robbins is old, these guys would kick your ass (not that Royal Robbins wouldn't).

The fixed head at the start is now gone. It fell out when my friend unclipped the the draw from it. The top half of this route is awesome!

I'm pretty sure Craig Lightburn (and possibly Mason Frischette?) climbed this in the mid '70s, as well as possibly others. It is probably the most obvious line in the canyon, and there were a few folks venturing into it during that time.

Most likely, Slim.
Hell, it was probably done in the '60s.

This might be one of the top 5 crack pitches in the Front Range at the grade, a true gem. And I've never seen anyone on it.

Bomber anchors at top thanks to Darren's hard work!

Hmmm, maybe I can blame falling on the rope drag? I didn't really notice it, even though I did this climb as one pitch. Probably I had the 40 lbs of rope drag Shumin mentions and just thought I was being weak.... Doing it on toprope afterward was MUCH easier.

This is completely possible to lead and lower with a 60m. Just don't miss the ledge!

Fantastic roof and steep crack! The line was begging me to climb it.

Excellent pitch. As for the "rope drag", if you use a 48" sling on both the webbing (bail tat?) under the roof, and then another 48" on your first piece in the roof; The drag should be pretty minimal.

I used 1 #4 Camalot in the wide part before the roof, and nothing smaller than a #0.5 Camalot.

I agree, it is totally do-able to lead as one pitch without bad rope drag or screwing the second. I've done so twice. Put your first piece in the roof as far out as you can reach from the stance, and put a 36" runner on it, and you're good. True, if your second falls, you'll have to lower them back to the ledge, but that would happen no matter what you did to protect that section.

Oh, and make sure to clip the bolt with a short draw as you turn the roof! This is key to keeping your rope from getting sucked into the crack.

Great route, no doubt one of the better cracks we have climbed in the Denver area. From the ground, it looks a lot wider than it was, we brought BD #4, never placed it. The move after the bolt in the roof, it could be placed there, but it seems to be in your way.