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Roadeo
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Roadeo 

Roadeo 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: AM shade, afternoon sun.
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2013
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Description 

This is a good route with a few brief sections to stop and make you think. The holds are typically good and incut. The rock is generally clean.

Though the Gillett book never specifically estimates the risk of the flake that the 5th bolt is in coming off, it felt 'overstated' as a risk. But the consequences, if it did, can not be overstated. There would be death. I chose to put in gear just above the 4th bolt and then skip the 5th bolt, where the climbing is not difficult anyway. The huge flake is not going to move due to simple body weight. It would be nearly certain to hold even the most brutal lead-fall, but not 100% certain, I did not clip it to risk testing it.

Overall, the route is actually quite good and not dangerous in my opinion, even eschewing the 5th bolt for lower gear.


Location 

This route lies on the lower West face of the formation, within 10 meters of the road. Climb past the bolt line to the anchors.


Protection 

This route goes past 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is quite high off the ground (5.7 to approach it), and the 5th bolt is in a slightly questionable, large flake. The anchors up top are chains to rap from.



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