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Road to Utopia 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Bolted by Todd Gordon, chopped by ?
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Blitzo on Feb 4, 2010

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"Road to Utopia". Photo by Blitzo.


This is the first route one comes to after scrambling to the base of the cliff.
It's hard to distinguish now that the bolts are gone. It's about 20 feet left of a short chimney. Follow big holds to incipient cracks where pro may be placed. Ends at the top of a ramp, witch can be used for descent.


Bolts have been chopped. Can be led on small to med. pro. Easily Top Roped.

Photos of Road to Utopia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: M. T. on R. T. U.
M. T. on R. T. U.

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By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Oct 15, 2010

Scramble around left to get to the bolts on top and use these to top rope. Fun little climb nice and juggy easy approach.
By Larry
From: SoAZ
Jan 7, 2011

There's a Very Interesting second pitch up the down-flaring chimney slightly left.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 30, 2016

Originally done with no bolts. (Gerberding/bartlett/reid ?)
Bolted up not knowing it was originally done without bolts. (by myself and friends.)
Re-established with bolts in different places. (unknown who re-established route)
Hangers spray-painted after they were installed...(a bit messy...)..

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