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Road to Utopia 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Bolted by Todd Gordon, chopped by ?
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: Blitzo on Feb 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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"Road to Utopia". Photo by Blitzo.


This is the first route one comes to after scrambling to the base of the cliff.
It's hard to distinguish now that the bolts are gone. It's about 20 feet left of a short chimney. Follow big holds to incipient cracks where pro may be placed. Ends at the top of a ramp, witch can be used for descent.


Bolts have been chopped. Can be led on small to med. pro. Easily Top Roped.

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Rock Climbing Photo: M. T. on R. T. U.
M. T. on R. T. U.

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By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Oct 15, 2010

Scramble around left to get to the bolts on top and use these to top rope. Fun little climb nice and juggy easy approach.
By Larry
From: SoAZ
Jan 7, 2011

There's a Very Interesting second pitch up the down-flaring chimney slightly left.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 30, 2016

Originally done with no bolts. (Gerberding/bartlett/reid ?)
Bolted up not knowing it was originally done without bolts. (by myself and friends.)
Re-established with bolts in different places. (unknown who re-established route)
Hangers spray-painted after they were installed...(a bit messy...)..
By Kyle Gibson
10 hours ago

The route was re-bolted in a very strange way ...first bolt is to low and the second is to high with a good chance of decking if you fall in between 1 & 2 ....and they spray painted the hangers after they were bolted to the wall , looks very Tacky ...In all a very poor rebolting
By Russ Walling
9 hours ago
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It is an absolute botch job and the retrobolters, in standard fashion, have never come forward to claim their handywork. The spraypaint is the kicker... what dumbshits. At some point the entire thing will be erased, as monument to stupidity.

It is a shame that the handful of people who do know never come forward, or give better guidance to their sub men when they send them out to do this sort of shit.

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