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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mad Cowboy Disease 
Manic Monday 
Road to Nowhere 
Sandstoner's Highway 
Shock and Awe 
Smoking Gun 
Wide Open Spaces 

Road to Nowhere 

5.9-

   
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Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
FA: Damon Johnson, Summer Colt, 2004
Season: Spring / Fall
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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John and Chad on the last pitch of Road To Nowhere...

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Description 

This is the leftmost route at the Sunshine Slabs.

P1: Start next to Sandstoner's Highway working up and left through sometimes questionable rock to a belay about 20' right of a pine tree (100'). Some wires nuts / medium small cams can be used in addition to the 4 bolts. (5.8)

P2: Climb up and right, past about 11 bolts, to the top. There is an intermediate belay available, but it is not needed. This is mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder spots.

Rap 3 times on a 60m rope. You can take the 2nd rap to the ledge on Sandstoners for a better anchor. A 70m rope would let you combine the first 2 raps.


Protection 

Bolts plus some medium wires / cams.



Photos of Road to Nowhere Slideshow Add Photo
Jess @ the first belay.

Jess @ the first belay.

Jess, just below the second rap anchors.

Jess, just below the second rap anchors.


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By S.Mckinna
From: Durango, CO
Feb 22, 2012

Unless you really want to get to the top anchors, you could traverse right at the last bolt before the RTN anchor and belay at the top of Sandstoner's anchors instead. From there, you could rap Sandstoner's twice with a 60m to get down.