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Dark Tower T 
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Twin Peaks S,TR 

Road to Isengard 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Glennis Walters, 2000
Page Views: 3,256
Submitted By: Jake Wyatt on May 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (114)
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Nickie Kelly stepping left onto the upper slab on ...

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Description 

This climbs just to the right of the enjoyable The Memory of Trees.

Start up the face 5 feet right of The Memory of Trees by a left-facing corner. Then scramble up to a small overhang and the second bolt. For the next couple bolts, the objective is to have as much fun as possible staying high on the face, avoiding the large tree and class 4 corner on the right. The best part of the climb is near the end, when the quasi-traversing ends and you fire straight up to the two-bolt anchor shared with The Memory of Trees.

The crux may be found at the start or high on the face near the 6th bolt. May be easier than 5.8 if "cheating" and finding the easiest line....

Protection 

7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 60m rope needed to lower.


Photos of Road to Isengard Slideshow Add Photo
Erik Marr starting up Road to Isengard.  Minas Tireth is the corner capped by the overhang on the right side of the picture.
Erik Marr starting up Road to Isengard. Minas Tir...
Erik Marr on the upper section of Road to Isengard.
Erik Marr on the upper section of Road to Isengard...

Comments on Road to Isengard Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 22, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 17, 2002

I led this route yesterday without any previous knowledge of it. I felt it was 5.6 at most, and I pretty much climbed straight up without much regard for finding the easiest path. My climbing partner led the route and felt it was 5.5, but he did traverse some for the easiest path. In either case, we both found it to be an enjoyable route. But use a 60m rope as a 50m rope barely makes it to the ground.
By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 18, 2002

Well, if you don't use your left hand for the first 20', then you can't use your right foot for the rest of the climb, it makes it 5.8. Just kidding.

Yeah, the only thing "difficult" about this climb I think I made up in the grungy corner to keep it interesting. Not really worth doing really...
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The starting moves can be done directly up the face to the first bolt without getting into the grungy corner on the right. The upper slab has a spot of 5.8 if you stick to the bolt line; easier variations exist to the left or the right. A fun slab pitch; worth doing as a warm-up for Memory of Trees. Slightly harder than Lothlorien. One star.
By Ray Snead
Sep 2, 2002

Per RR: "Road to Isengard ", 5.7. Crappy down low, but quite good second half.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 19, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I was finally able to climb this route today. (I wasn't the one who added the route to the database.) Probably about on par with Lothlorien in terms of difficulty, but a few more bolts and a little longer.
By Jeff Fiedler
Aug 22, 2007

I agree with Ron Olsen's assessment. Follow the bolt line for thoughtful footwork and moves (for the grade). Fun climb, especially after the first bolt or two.
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We all thought this route was a lot of fun. Easy climbing on big holds leads to some decent exposure and a quick crux on the upper section. There is definitely no need to climb in the grungy corner. Step left onto the face - way better that way.
By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I found this pretty easy, but the moves were less than obvious to the infrequent climbers I was with. I fired straight up, but they tried to wander. Only worth a repeat if I had to hang a top rope for new climbers.
By mrbiscoop
Oct 4, 2011

Very easy and very enjoyable. Lots of fun.
By JJR
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This was my first lead. And for that, it was good, because the climbing is pretty easy all the way. If you're an experienced leader, not worth it, but if you're bringing a new leader, maybe take them here. Overall an ok climb, nothing spectacular.
By Eliot Augusto
From: Boulder, CO
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I loved this route personally. It's well protected and fun the whole way up. Follow the bolts for a line that is more fun.