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Road Rash Roof 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1997
Page Views: 3,989
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 31, 2001

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Pulling the big roof with a nice heel hook.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Road Rash Roof looks a bit intimidating from the ground (and it looks intimidating from just underneath the roof as well), but the climbing is well protected and very secure. Begin on a sparsely protected slab to the right of the dark gully with Jackpot on its left side. Rolofson's guide calls the slab 5.9, but don't believe it. A tricky move crosses a small prow below the roof and this is certainly a 5.10 section. To launch the roof, turn out and look straight away from the crag. Jugs, to a heel hook, to a jam, to a crimp along with some big juice will get you over this grunt, and the crux is pulling over the roof on the crimp. Gotta love Alan for that move! If you bring the muscle, this route is a kick; if you are feeling soft, pick a face route. Two stars for good continuity, well-protected, and the chance to launch through a big roof.


Protection 

QDs only and some slings for below the roof. This route has an 85 feet rap for close to 100 feet of climbing. It makes a very poor top rope problem, and the best ascent is to climb both partners to the top and rap with a 60m rope.



Photos of Road Rash Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing the crux sequence - get the right hand and stand up.
Finishing the crux sequence - get the right hand a...
Ryan Fiore pulling out of the roof.
Ryan Fiore pulling out of the roof.
Dane vs. Goliath.
Dane vs. Goliath.
Pullin' tha lip! Heel hook for the win!
Pullin' tha lip! Heel hook for the win!
Ryan Fiore on Road Rash Roof.
Ryan Fiore on Road Rash Roof.
Ryan Fiore clipping the crux draw on Road Rash Roof.
Ryan Fiore clipping the crux draw on Road Rash Roo...
Comments on Road Rash Roof Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 26, 2013
By DUCKMAN
Jul 22, 2003

A great route with a fun crux section. Lean out using the big jugs under the roof to the crux. An acrobatic move is necessary as the feet are needed while trying the roof ledge. Try a heel hook above your head if your upper body or fingers are not very stout. Then use the crack to lean against while rocking onto the heel hooking foot. A very thrilling crux move that everybody sould try!

By Jesse Ryan
Oct 9, 2003
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Very Fun!

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 7, 2004

Get your right heel way up high so you can move your left hand up next to it then campus. It ain't often the holds are good enough to do this, and the fall is so clean. Use a long draw under the roof and a super shorty above the roof to avoid the rope getting stuck in the crack as you turn the roof.

By richard magill
Jul 29, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I just had a mountain bike wreck that left me with some serious road rash, so it seemed doubly appropriate to do this route in my current condition.

Pretty fun - a one move wonder, but it is a very interesting crux with cool exposure.

Be careful not too lower off the end of the rope! Tie a knot in the end. A 60M rope will get you close enough to scramble down, but won't get you all the way.

Also, it is much easier to clean this on a top rope, rather than cleaning on the way down.This route arcs up and right so it is somewhat of a hassle to get back to your gear as you lower.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Aug 13, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I had a great time heeling with my right, then switching to my left and mantling to a hold out right. Many variations!

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 15, 2005

I climbed this route the other day. It was really fun, but when I got to the anchors, there was a red sling around it. So, I had lower off the bolt before the anchor. Just wondering if anybody knows what's wrong with it?

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jul 21, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun route! Basically 60 ft of 5.9 to a V4 to 20 ft of 5.8 (the 5.10 mentioned in the description above is easily avoided by climbing left of the 4th bolt, rather than straight over it)

There are now chains w/ a ring at the anchors. A 60m will just get you to the sloping ramp.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 3, 2010

Fun one move wonder though the climbing is fun above and below the crux roof. Put a long draw/sling at the bolt under the roof. Lots of rope drag if you dont!

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Maybe you should go back to New York then, you guys are so much better with your real ratings out there. Man, I wish I could downgrade stuff, too!

By slim
Administrator
May 18, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Definitely a silly comment, as I have climbed routes at the Gunks (particularly roof cracks) that seemed pretty fluff rated.

By chipacles
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

FUN route! The climbing up to the roof is heady but not difficult. You get to the roof, turn around, and WOW, can we say exposed! But as you lean out over nothing on those awesome jugs, it's just amazing! One of the most fun routes I've climbed anywhere, just for those few moves on the roof and pulling the crux on the lip. The clip just over the lip with the heel hook is classic and awesome!

I second D's Nutz's suggestion on putting a long (like 2 ft, using a sling) draw under the roof...a 20cm draw is NOT long enough to avoid massive rope drag. And, to make it even smoother, put a long draw below that one, too. MUCH better.

By doze
From: Denver, CO
Sep 6, 2012

My friend trying the lip move.

By Nick G.
Jul 26, 2013

Great roof! The route is not very sustained, but the roof is well worth it!