Road Rash Roof looks a bit intimidating from the ground (and it looks intimidating from just underneath the roof as well), but the climbing is well protected and very secure. Begin on a sparsely protected slab to the right of the dark gully with Jackpot on its left side. Rolofson's guide calls the slab 5.9, but don't believe it. A tricky move crosses a small prow below the roof and this is certainly a 5.10 section. To launch the roof, turn out and look straight away from the crag. Jugs, to a heel hook, to a jam, to a crimp along with some big juice will get you over this grunt, and the crux is pulling over the roof on the crimp. Gotta love Alan for that move! If you bring the muscle, this route is a kick; if you are feeling soft, pick a face route. Two stars for good continuity, well-protected, and the chance to launch through a big roof.
QDs only and some slings for below the roof. This route has an 85 feet rap for close to 100 feet of climbing. It makes a very poor top rope problem, and the best ascent is to climb both partners to the top and rap with a 60m rope.
A great route with a fun crux section. Lean out using the big jugs under the roof to the crux. An acrobatic move is necessary as the feet are needed while trying the roof ledge. Try a heel hook above your head if your upper body or fingers are not very stout. Then use the crack to lean against while rocking onto the heel hooking foot. A very thrilling crux move that everybody sould try!
By Jesse Ryan Oct 9, 2003 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+E5 6a
Get your right heel way up high so you can move your left hand up next to it then campus. It ain't often the holds are good enough to do this, and the fall is so clean. Use a long draw under the roof and a super shorty above the roof to avoid the rope getting stuck in the crack as you turn the roof.
I climbed this route the other day. It was really fun, but when I got to the anchors, there was a red sling around it. So, I had lower off the bolt before the anchor. Just wondering if anybody knows what's wrong with it?
By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Jul 21, 2006 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+E5 6a
Fun route! Basically 60 ft of 5.9 to a V4 to 20 ft of 5.8 (the 5.10 mentioned in the description above is easily avoided by climbing left of the 4th bolt, rather than straight over it)
There are now chains w/ a ring at the anchors. A 60m will just get you to the sloping ramp.
Fun one move wonder though the climbing is fun above and below the crux roof. Put a long draw/sling at the bolt under the roof. Lots of rope drag if you dont!
By adampeters From: Golden, Colorado May 17, 2010 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+E5 6a
Maybe you should go back to New York then, you guys are so much better with your real ratings out there. Man, I wish I could downgrade stuff, too!
By slim Administrator May 18, 2010 rating: 5.11d7a24VIIIE5 6a
Definitely a silly comment, as I have climbed routes at the Gunks (particularly roof cracks) that seemed pretty fluff rated.
By chipacles Jun 24, 2010 rating: 5.11d7a24VIIIE5 6a
FUN route! The climbing up to the roof is heady but not difficult. You get to the roof, turn around, and WOW, can we say exposed! But as you lean out over nothing on those awesome jugs, it's just amazing! One of the most fun routes I've climbed anywhere, just for those few moves on the roof and pulling the crux on the lip. The clip just over the lip with the heel hook is classic and awesome!
I second D's Nutz's suggestion on putting a long (like 2 ft, using a sling) draw under the roof...a 20cm draw is NOT long enough to avoid massive rope drag. And, to make it even smoother, put a long draw below that one, too. MUCH better.