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A good climb and pretty well protected. Perhaps a good lead for entry-level trad climbers. THe route includes some slab, some jamming and some vertical face. The route finding is straight-forward and the top out has good gear.
This climb starts up a mixed crack system just right of the Bat Wings Direct variation and climbs into the left-facing corner system. When in doubt, 2/3 of the way up, go slightly left. This is the case until the top, where it goes up and sharply right in a slabby corner.
A standard Rack with some longer slings.
|By Kiri Namtvedt|
Jul 6, 2010
Once you've gone to the right at the top your anchor will probably require a large cam or some creativity. (I had to provide creativity). Also, the crux is around the 2/3rds point where you trend slightly left.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 13, 2013
The top-out of this route was confusing to me. It seemed if I went far left, I would get a lot of rope drag. So I chose to go straight up some steep, overhanging cracks. They offered protection but were really quite strenuous, more like 5.9, although engaging. I wanted a warm-up... be careful what you wish for, ha ha!
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Yeah, you do have to be creative building an anchor at the top. I vaguely remember using a #3 and #2?
If you go left at the top, the rope drag does get pretty bad. BUT, the climbing is very easy and safe. It's a 5.4 ramp or so that's probably on 20ft long. Plus the overhanging crack that the above commentor went up looked way too intense for this feeble climber. The rope drage is definitely why this route doesn't get more stars! The two bulge sections are a lot of fun!
Oh! We rappelled off with a 70m. But be careful pulling your rope from the anchors. Our rope got wicked stuck, had to reclimb the route. Pull way to the right to prevent our fiasco.