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 ADVANCED
Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Silhouette T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Telepherique 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

Road Less Warren 

WI4-5 M5

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus: WI4-5 M5 [details]
FA: K Gillest & E Lashinsky, 12/2009
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall or early Winter
Page Views: 1,465
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Dec 21, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Road Less Warren - Green
The Road - Yellow
Concret...

Description 

Climbed straight up middle of lower curtain (in your face), traversed right to column, climbed through small mixed roof to easier ground, rock gear at roof, top out was completely dry with good rock gear. (In November there appears to be more variations possible)

Now that anchor is fixed, it's possible to lower into drainage, no downclimb needed.


Location 

This route is located on the left side, above and left of the top out on "The Road" route. Best way to approach would be to climb "The Road" or "Concrete Shoes..." hike towards the saddle/col, look down into 2nd to last drainage before the saddle/col.

Approach: Hike from Echo Lake on the Chicago Lakes trail 5 miles until you reach the first Chicago Lake. Cross the valley/lake and head up to the main rock buttress on Mt. Warren.

Descent: Hike southeast to the saddle/col and descend to the Mt. Evans Road. Take the road back from between mile markers 7 and 8, shortcuts are possible.


Protection 

17cm screws and stubbies, light rock rack if climbed in mixed conditions.

Anchor: 6mm cord with quick link for easy descent fixed 15 feet directly above ice.



Photos of Road Less Warren Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Lashinsky showing mile marker 7 after getting back to the Mt Evans road.
BETA PHOTO: Eric Lashinsky showing mile marker 7 after getting...
Picture of route 11/22/09, not climbed until 12/20. More ice in November, no doubt.
BETA PHOTO: Picture of route 11/22/09, not climbed until 12/20...
Eric Lashinsky just getting through the roof, nearing the top out.
Eric Lashinsky just getting through the roof, near...
Picture of Road Less Warren, looking sublimated compared to November photo.
BETA PHOTO: Picture of Road Less Warren, looking sublimated co...
Very minimal ice on Oct. 30, 2011.
Very minimal ice on Oct. 30, 2011.
Comments on Road Less Warren Add Comment
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By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Dec 21, 2009

Route was fairly sublimated, but well bonded. A long approach combined with a short route, better to climb "The Road" Or "Concrete Shoes" first. We climbed "Concrete Shoes" and than got this one on the walk out, both routes in 11 hours, car to car.