This route parallels Living Dead and Dead Boy and is just to the right of Living Dead. Climb the steep finger crack and move to the right of the crack on the very positive flakes. Is a little dirty towards the top of the pitch. TR or continue up.
Stoppers, small and med, maybe some small or med Aliens could help.
Just below the crux section. The Book of the Dead ...
I'm posting this photo to show the nearby climbs, ...
The crux is completely over when you reach the fla...
|By S. Kimball|
Aug 15, 2003
Even if you stem off of nearby Sport's Pages, dropping the grade closer to 5.9, this still has good climbing. Add 2nd pich of Living Dead , better yet...
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 11, 2004
We thought this was a very nice route. The only negative is the proximity to Sports Pages. Although we didn't stem over to Sports Pages, we did use the right side of the rib that separates the two crack systems. This felt a bit like cheating but was the obvious thing to do.
Gillett describes a 10a second pitch that appears to be different than the second pitch of Living Dead. We read about this pitch in the car on the way home so didn't scope it out.
Jun 12, 2006
Great route!! From the top, continue on the left-angling crack system to a second set of anchors. 70m rope helpful, not sure if a 60 will get down.
|By Bill Flaherty|
From: Evergreen, CO
May 29, 2009
Really fun pitch. Great pro, good moves, and you can play around on the Living Dead, a tough 11b next door, from the same bolted anchors. No need to step over into Sports Pages as I think one guidebook says, the crack is great all the way up, if a little veggie.
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Very fun pitch, kind of feels like sport climbing more than crack climbing during the crux.