Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ed and Terry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Date S,TR 
Call it a Knight S,TR 
Captured For Rapture T 
Dipthong T 
DJW Memorial T 
Edge of Knight T 
Edge of the World T 
Edge-n-Scary T 
First Kiss T,TR 
Flakes T,TR 
Full Skuck T 
Hotwired T 
I'm Not Lichen This S 
I.D. Claire S 
Lucky Streak T 
Main Crack T 
Neosymian Thugs S 
No Way In Hell T,TR 
North Chimney T 
North Crack T 
Real McCoy T,TR 
Roaches on a Face T 
Vote for Your Mom S 
Y Crack, The T 

Roaches on a Face 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bart Dahneke
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: Christian Knight on May 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 19 Roaches on a Face 5.10d R

Description 

The bolts may be far apart but the potential to deck is quite low. Exciting moves to the lip of the overhang. Beautiful face climbing on immaculate quartzite. Gives you a proper lead head and a sense of accomplishment. Just commit and you'll see.

Location 

Blank looking face in the middle of the wall. Climbs through the middle of the overhang right of Main Crack. Lower or rappel off with a 60 meter rope.

Protection 

4 bolts to chain anchors. You can place some small gear between the bolts.


Comments on Roaches on a Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 9, 2008

An intimidating and exhilarating climb.

I wouldn't call it a sport route. I slung a couple of horns and used (very) small nuts before the bolts, between the first and second bolts, and above the bolts. If you don't use the gear...Christian is right, the potential for decking is remote, but a fall would be long and potentially damaging. But if you use gear, this route isn't R-rated.

The roof is intimidating, but surprisingly, turning it is not the most difficult bit.
By AJ Dexter
From: Portland, OR
Sep 5, 2008

Super awesome climb. Some commitment and you can work out the "blank" section for sure. Definitely recommend gear placements if you are squeamish.
By Tim Moore
Mar 13, 2014

I'd highly recommend not climbing this without gear as there are only 4 bolts each spaced out about 15 feet apart. The start to the first bolt is about twenty feet.