|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Christian Knight on May 8, 2008|
|Comments on Roaches on a Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
May 9, 2008
An intimidating and exhilarating climb.
I wouldn't call it a sport route. I slung a couple of horns and used (very) small nuts before the bolts, between the first and second bolts, and above the bolts. If you don't use the gear...Christian is right, the potential for decking is remote, but a fall would be long and potentially damaging. But if you use gear, this route isn't R-rated.
The roof is intimidating, but surprisingly, turning it is not the most difficult bit.
By AJ Dexter
From: Portland, OR
Sep 5, 2008
|Super awesome climb. Some commitment and you can work out the "blank" section for sure. Definitely recommend gear placements if you are squeamish.|
By Tim Moore
Mar 13, 2014
|I'd highly recommend not climbing this without gear as there are only 4 bolts each spaced out about 15 feet apart. The start to the first bolt is about twenty feet.|