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Several bolted face climbs appeared on the Tower in the late 80's and early 90's before the Park Service got wind of the drilling and put the kibosh on it. This may not be the most stellar example of these climbs but it has a fine, airy position right on the SE corner and is a great route to do while waiting in line for Soler.
Take the south face approach up "the ramp" to the broken column at the extreme right side of the south face. Continue around the nicely exposed corner onto the east face just below the chimney/corner start of Hollywood and Vine. Roach Addition climbs the face of the broken column to the left of the corner. Go up the face passing 3 bolts with a few insipient cracks between which will take some small nuts if need be. The crux is at a small overlap at the 3rd bolt. There is a two bolt anchor on the ledge for a rappel or continue up Rocksuckers or Hollywood and Vine.
It is also easy to set up a toprope here but congestion can be a problem with all the crowds passing through for Soler and Tad.
3 quickdraws and a few extra small nuts.
Roach Addition goes up the rounded column to the l...
|Comments on Roach Addition
|By Paul Jacobson|
Feb 5, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This is a great route. Different than most routes at the tower. Great slab using small face holds and cracks a holds. No crack technique needed! When I heard there was only 3 bolts I was a bit freeked, but there is plenty of places for stoppers. Give it a ride. There is great exposure on this one!
Feb 19, 2008
There are definitely better routes at the tower, don't waste your time.
Of the 30 routes I've climbed here, this one and the first pitch of dump watt are the bottom two on the list. (although i heard that 'dump watt' was popular, and much cleaner in the 80's.)
don't get me wrong: "even the bad routes are good", but there are WAY better lines to be climbed at the Devils Tower
From: Burlingame, CA
Jun 6, 2009
Agree this is bottom of the barrel face climbing at the tower, BUT:
1. It's moderate and thus accessible to more climbers
2. It's got a GREAT, airy, full-view belay at the top
3. Rappel that can be done with one 60m rope to the ramps
The view was probably one of the widest I got at the Tower (besides the top!).