Ro Shampo 5.12a
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | J. Baker, J. Link |
| Submitted By: | Mike on Sep 17, 2006 |
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Tony Bubb on Ro Shambo, (11c) at Roadside Crag in ...
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Description A stellar sport route. Climb up steep face on plates and edges to chains. Easy for the grade, it felt more like a solid 5.11 in my opinion. A great lead for someone trying to break into the grade, especially if you have a big reach.
Protection Well bolted with a chain anchor.
Location Continue right on the appoach trail past the 5.10 wall to the overhanging wall just right of Harder Than Your Husband. Shares the first bolt with Tic Tac Toe. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall at the start of Roadside Attraction.
BETA PHOTO: 1 of 10
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BETA PHOTO: 2 of 10
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BETA PHOTO: 3 of 10
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BETA PHOTO: 4 of 10
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BETA PHOTO: 5 of 10
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BETA PHOTO: 6 of 10
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BETA PHOTO: 7 of 10
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BETA PHOTO: 9 of 10
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BETA PHOTO: 10 of 10
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before 3rd clip
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at the 3rd bolt
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crux of ro
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low on ro.
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Kinda steep...
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Lower Half of RoShampo by Ali Clark
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Bradley Killough workin the crux on Ro...
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Ben low on Ro. 1 of 3. October '08.
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Ben making the swing. 2 of 3. October '08.
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Ben past the crux on Ro Shampo. 3 of 3. October ...
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SteveZ with cool lighting on Ro Shampo before his ...
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SteveZ working out the crux move on Ro just prior ...
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SteveZ at the crux of Ro Shampo, Roadside Crag, RR...
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Otey onsighting...
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Jason pulling on for an onsight attempt...
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Cleaning Ro Shampo after a sunset send
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Clipping the second bolt
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a good look at how steep this climb is
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rock-papers-scissors
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Eyeballing the crux finish holds. October 2010.
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Staring at what I think is the crux of this route.
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Stuck the left hand after a couple of attempts.
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2nd or 3rd bolt
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Dan setting up for the crux, fall 2006
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John battling the steep.
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2006
rating: 5.11c
| The upper part of the route has a few holds that can seep after a long period of heavy rains. The grade of this route is dubious and always has been. It goes static at 11c, and is well-fit for power climbers. |
By 426
Apr 2, 2007
| Sorta short for RRG route, this route is more p/e rather than enduro fest... |
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 14, 2007
| I agree with Tony it is really more like solid 5.11 but was listed at 5.12a in the book so that's what I put in the description. Definitely easier if you have a good reach. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 24, 2008
| Im not a RRG local or anything but it feels like the 5.12a's ive climbed in New Hampshire... Maybe after climbing it a few times I'd find beta that could make it more moderate... |
By doug rouse
Jan 9, 2009
| Wow the pictures of this route are so good, I don't think I would even have to climb it to know what it is like. Kinda like Morrison on steriods! |
By Joi-Bobby Laos
Aug 18, 2010
| since this is considered a 5.11 "if you're reachy", then it'd be a solid 5.12 if your average (say 5'7, unless of course, being 5'7 isn't average...). i'm making my first trip out to RRG this weekend and i have my sites set on sending my first 5.12 (my goal for the end of summer). i've been doing a bit of research and actually saw this route on a video, looks like a lot of fun, hopefully i'll pass by the roadside crag. |
By S. Neoh
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| Go for it. It is a fun route. I am shorter than 5'7" and it still felt like hard 5.11 to me. I did the route 2nd try years and years ago, before the anchors got lowered by a few feet. I am 'local' to NH but have been visiting RRG the last few years.
Manifest Destiny over at Muir is a touch easier and is less chalked up than Ro. |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| I was kinda hoping for some more beta photos on this route... |
By skinny legs and all
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.11d
| The pocket at the crux can be skipped with body english. Sprint to the chains, each hold is huge. Not 5.12 in my opinion. |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Apr 7, 2012
| We drove 3.5 hours from the New and flashed without even warming up. Not 12a, but fun. |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 18, 2012
| Why are people still ticking routes at a closed cliff... I have no idea why this place got shut down... |
By EricSchmidt
Apr 18, 2013
| Tom probably cause they are ticking old sends..... I doubt anyone is climbing there illegally so stop getting your panties in a bunch! |
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