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Sunset North
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R.J. Gold T 
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R.J. Gold 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson and Peter Henley 1980
Page Views: 3,457
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 18, 2007

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RJ Gold follows the right most of the two cracks


R.J. is a great introduction to the grade with good gear and a variety of different types of climbing from fingers, hands, a roof and some slab moves.

Starting about 20' left of a detached pinnacle, follow a thin crack up and right to a hand crack. When the hand crack ends, angle up and left to a roof, then move up onto a slabby face protected by a single bolt. Continue up the face to the anchors.


Starts just right of Mineral Fright and Jefferson Airplane, about 20 ft left of the detached pinnacle in a thin crack. Bolted anchors at the top.


Mostly small to medium gear.

Photos of R.J. Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Redpointing RJ.  Photo courtesy of Ben L.
Redpointing RJ. Photo courtesy of Ben L.

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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 6, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is loads of fun and one of the more aesthetic lines I've led on the north end. Great pro, and that single bolt has a distinct calming effect for the moves through the crux. Must do!
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009

Best 5.9 for me yet! Probably one of the best in the SE. Didn't really know where the crux was... I like slab!
By FrankP
Nov 21, 2011

Great route! Solid 5.9 climbing, fun moves, good gear. Had to finish it in the rain though, made the crux a bit more interesting....
By runout
Aug 28, 2013

a purple metolus tcu or master cam protects the start of the thin crack. then fire it until you reach the ledge. the ledge has a jug but you have to reach in towards the back for it to be really good.

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