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Sunset North
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Unsorted Routes:

R.J. Gold 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson and Peter Henley 1980
Page Views: 2,393
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 18, 2007
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Redpointing RJ. Photo courtesy of Ben L.

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Description 

R.J. is a great introduction to the grade with good gear and a variety of different types of climbing from fingers, hands, a roof and some slab moves.

Starting about 20' left of a detached pinnacle, follow a thin crack up and right to a hand crack. When the hand crack ends, angle up and left to a roof, then move up onto a slabby face protected by a single bolt. Continue up the face to the anchors.


Location 

Starts just right of Mineral Fright and Jefferson Airplane, about 20 ft left of the detached pinnacle in a thin crack. Bolted anchors at the top.


Protection 

Mostly small to medium gear.



Photos of R.J. Gold Slideshow Add Photo
RJ Gold follows the right most of the two cracks
RJ Gold follows the right most of the two cracks
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 6, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This route is loads of fun and one of the more aesthetic lines I've led on the north end. Great pro, and that single bolt has a distinct calming effect for the moves through the crux. Must do!

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009

Best 5.9 for me yet! Probably one of the best in the SE. Didn't really know where the crux was... I like slab!

By FrankP
Nov 21, 2011

Great route! Solid 5.9 climbing, fun moves, good gear. Had to finish it in the rain though, made the crux a bit more interesting....

By KevinK
Aug 28, 2013

a purple metolus tcu or master cam protects the start of the thin crack. then fire it until you reach the ledge. the ledge has a jug but you have to reach in towards the back for it to be really good.